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Luther Spires
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Mixed Emotions 
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Mixed Emotions 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Offenbachar, 2002
Page Views: 1,015
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 15, 2004
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Tim nearing the top of Mixed Emotions

Description 

Mixed Emotions ascends the downhill (south) face of a pretty skinny spire about 150 left and uphill from where you first arrive at the crag. The climb is easily recognized by the crack system that gives way to bolts about 40 feet off the deck.

The crack goes at about 5.10a and there's also a distinct face crux up high, making Mixed Emotions a good mixture of 10a fun.


Protection 

A low crack is traditionally protected before 6 bolts to a two bolt anchor up high.

Bring cams to 1.25 inches.



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By Frank K
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 24, 2009

I'd say that this is a must do if you find yourself at Luther Spires. Lower crack takes great gear, Top bolted portion is fun and mellow, a nice summit as well.

By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Aug 16, 2010

Good route for a first time 10a trad leader (which was me!)There are convenient holds on the face (one of them is a total jug) so you can rest and place gear but not enough to avoid the crack. Bring several small cams in the 0.6 inch range (yellow C3 to grey C4) to really protect the crack well. Once the bolts start, it's a smooth climb.

By Josh Cameron
Apr 16, 2013

Fun climb with two distinct cruxes: the crack and where the face steepens at the third bolt. Great climbing in a great position!