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Miura vs. Katana vs. Solutions
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By Josh Kornish
Aug 23, 2011
The Roach

I'm onto my next pair of shoes and I feel that my footwork has improved to the point that a high end pair of shoes could help out.

I've gone through the Phoenix, Technos, Thunder, and Gambits.

I climb 5.11+ sport, 5.10 trad, and boulder V4.

I will still be using my other shoes for moderate multi-pitch and warming up. I want my new shoes for project, bouldering indoors mainly, and harder face/slab climbing.

I tried on the Katanas today and I loved the feel and the lining. The Miuras VS were a size too big so I couldn't really get a feel.

My street shoe is 41.5 - 42

Anything info you can give me would be great!!
Thanks in advance,
Josh


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By Jesse Ryan
Aug 23, 2011
Psyched or bananas

Given the obvious caveat that everyone's foot fits shoes differently and much of the obvious, restated below, about what those models are designed for:

Katanas will be the least aggressive (toe downturn and camber and heel properties) of that trio, but is plenty aggressive for angles around vertical and even steeper. Comfortable and great shoe!

Muiras I have the least experience with (had a pair I tried for a season to make work that were too small). But they edge well, a tad more aggressive than the Katanas.

The Solutions are amazing shoes. They feel and act like shoes designed for the steeps, but because of some proprietary magic in it's design, performs very well at many angles, not just the steeps. Probably my favorite of the 3, but if you aren't used to aggressive camber, it might take a few months to get the hang of what you can and can't do in a shoe like this.

Overall I'd recommend the Solutions, but you can't go wrong with any of these shoes. Especially if you want a shoe quite a bit different than you already have go Solution. If you want your quiver of shoes to be less spread out in features, go Muira or Katana (I love the Katana lace - I'm a big lace fan - then again the Solutions strap system is not your normal Velcro system).


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By Josh Kornish
Aug 23, 2011
The Roach

Thanks Jesse!
I just ordered two pairs of the Katanas to get the perfect fit. They are amazing and I think I'll just step up to that aggression before the Solutions which I'll definitely check out.

Thanks again!


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By S. Neoh
Aug 23, 2011

When you are ready, try the Katana Lace (very different from Katana Velcro). The Lace version has the same P3 thingie that the Solution has. Edging monster without too much of a down camber.


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By Josh Kornish
Aug 23, 2011
The Roach

I ordered the Katana Lace. I tried a pair on at my local gear store and they are phenomenal. After climbing in Leavenworth with sloppy shoes I need some nice edge action


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Aug 23, 2011
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

mslarunner wrote:
I ordered the Katana Lace. I tried a pair on at my local gear store and they are phenomenal. After climbing in Leavenworth with sloppy shoes I need some nice edge action


I'm curious what size you ordered. I'm a similar foot size and cant decide between 41 and 41.5...i tried on the 40.5 and got my foot in but damn it hurt to stand up on an edge


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By Josh Kornish
Aug 23, 2011
The Roach

Backcountry suggested I order two sizes and see which size fits the best. I tried on the 41 today and it fit perfect. I heard they stretch so I ordered a 40.5 and a 41. If I can get the 40.5 on my foot without too much pain then I will probably end up with those. Do you know how the shoe may stretch being a lined shoe?


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By Josh Kornish
Aug 23, 2011
The Roach

I'm going to take both to the gym and see how they work. I will probably end up with the 41


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Aug 23, 2011
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

mslarunner wrote:
Backcountry suggested I order two sizes and see which size fits the best. I tried on the 41 today and it fit perfect. I heard they stretch so I ordered a 40.5 and a 41. If I can get the 40.5 on my foot without too much pain then I will probably end up with those. Do you know how the shoe may stretch being a lined shoe?



from all the first hand accounts they dont stretch. They mold. I have a good friend who climbs in 40.5's and his shoes were broken in. They felt fine when i put the shoe on, but standing on an edge was searing pain. I'm not one who likes having all my toes curled up though. I like a straight big toe


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By Josh Kornish
Aug 23, 2011
The Roach

Fencer,
Thanks for the information! I will for sure get the 41 then. It felt perfect if it doesn't stretch. I'm stoked; they are phenomenal!


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By Brice Harris
Aug 26, 2011

I have a 45 in a katana and my street shoe is a 46. It fits beautifully, didn't stretch much, and i've climbed into easy 12's with it. great shoes, especially resoled with C4 rubber.


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By JamesMichelinie
Aug 26, 2011

I definitely think they (Katana Lace) will loosen up a bit. I went with slightly uncomfortable at first and now they are heavenly. YMMV.


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By srbutler
May 17, 2013

I currently have the Katanas and this is my second pair. These shoes tend to burn rubber fast no matter how well you place your feet. I thought my first pair went due to poor footwork but after running through the second pair even faster with vastly improved footwork it is apparent that it is the shoe. More use of my feet without toe dragging in the second pair has me considering the Miura VS. As for sizing I seem to be moving down in sizes as I climb more. Seems much like the ancient art of foot binding. My shoe size is a 43 in street shoes and my original pair of Katanas were a 40.5. The second pair I got was a 39. I am able to walk around with little pain in a pair of 39 Miuras and am considering moving down to a 38.5. The 38 was just to painful to bare.


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By mindchatter
From Denver, CO
May 20, 2013

I LOVE my Katana laces. LOVE. Comfortable, great edging, great smearing, and I can actually wear them for a few hrs without going numb or getting bloody blisters. Came from a worn thru pair of Moccasyms which were 1.5 sizes larger, and my Katanas are far more comfortable.

I just got them resoled after climbing in them for a season (primarily outdoor sport with 1-2 bouldering sessions a week.) My favorite shoes ever.


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By S. Neoh
May 20, 2013

To me, the Katana Lace is a great shoe. They performed great with XS Grip on the soles, much better than the original XS Edge. I am waiting to get them back from the resoler a second time, this time with C4.


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