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Miura lace-up on Snake Dike (a.k.a. Miura on slab)

Original Post
Jack Hamm · · Pahrump, NV · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 65

So I'm doing Snake Dike this weekend and I blew the toe out on my 5.10 Rogues which are my go to on slab currently. I have a pair of new Miura lace-ups that I got for more vertical/edging stuff, but I've never put them on friction. The subtle downturn concerns me a little on whether that will screw me up on friction (I know that the shoes don't make the climber, but I don't want these to break the climber either). So, anyone taken Miura lace-ups on friction slab? How do they perform? Rubber going to stick? Or should I do a panic purchase and grab something more slab friendly like Mythos/Moccs/TCs?

Thanks!
Jack

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

people have done snake dike in skate shoes, i'm sure whatever you end up taking will work fine. This is 5.7 friction climbing...

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

yer gonna die!?

Depends on if you care about comfort. It's going t hurt if your shoes are tight. Fine if they are not. If you don't care they will be more than enough to get you up there.

Jack Hamm · · Pahrump, NV · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 65

I figured I was gonna die which is why I asked =)

I'm whatever the opposite of a badass climber is (you know, aging, bald, and fat), so I like play it safe on these things and ask. So I think I'll chance the pain feet and go with the Miuras.

Thanks y'all.

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

good luck on the snake! your feet are going to hurt no matter what shoes you end up wearing, but with new shoes you should try and brake them in and get them comfy. Besides the cruxes, you are going up hundreds of feet of 5.4 and then 4th class slab at the end. Not fun in any shoe. I hope you didn't size them too aggressively.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

It'll work. Probably going to hurt. A lot. Take 'em off when belaying.

steverett · · Boston, MA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105

Depends on how tight they are. My Miuras work great on slab. They're sized so I can keep them on for hours, but work great on any type of climb.

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415
mpech wrote: This is 5.7 friction climbing...
with jugs.
Mikey Seaman · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

Don't listen to the banter on here. In all seriousness, if you bring the wrong shoes on snake dike you could put yourself in a bad situation, particularly if you have a follower who has less experience or even more inappropriate shoes. Play it safe, do some more research and don't be afraid to bail on the ascent if things start to go awry. Your ego will recover but your body may not.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

I love my miuras on slab. They will work great, unless you are one of those boulderer types that buys them too tight.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

i feel like you could never go wrong on snake dike in a well broken in pair of muira lace or tc pros.

Jack Hamm · · Pahrump, NV · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 65

Thanks everyone for all the advice! I think my Miura's are broken in pretty well now so I'm going to take them rather than buy a new shoe now and chance it fitting wrong. I didn't buy them too small, so they have been relatively comfortable, but I had heard from people that the downturn would be bad on slab - it seems that they might have been speculating since obviously some of you use them on slab.

This is my first time up the Snake, but fortunately, I'll be leading behind a friend that has done it a few times. I'll report back afterwards on how my experience was and whether my shoe choice was good or bad.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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