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This route requires a bit of a lot of different technique. The bottom section is a fairly easy crack, but requires a bit of thinking for gear placement. The middle bulge (first crux) looks a bit intimidating, but the crimps are all there. After a little offwidth section, the top section (second crux) is pure face; very fun and protected by two bolts. This last section is almost like a reverse "Lotta Balls", instead of balls, there are small dimples that you don't think will quite hold you, but do.
This route starts in the obvious crack about 30' right of the start to "Tarzan's Arm", follows the crack up, over a bulge, through a short offwidth section, past two bolts, to the bolted anchors. As with all other climbs on this face, you walk off right, and circle back to the base. You could rap off with a 65 meter rope, with a 60 meter rope you end up having to downclimb the last 6-8'.
Nuts, cams up to #4 Friend. There are two bolts in the last 20' or so. Bolted anchors.
|Comments on Mitten's Revenge
Nov 15, 2008
The new guidebook (Handren) has this route labled as 22 Minutes Till Closing.