Misunderstood  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Before June 2007 Submitted By:  Orphaned on Jul 2, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>> Little Cottonwood Access Update Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner. The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek. Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Route Description 

Start:The right/west edge of a big wide slab.


Pitch 1: Climb up the weaknesses to the first bolt. Don't make it harder than 5.4. Clip bolt 1 and make a 5.7 friction move. Clip a long runner into the chains above and continue up to the roof. Move through the notch that takes a good cam. A large cam protects the precarious move up to a bolt. Diagonal left toward the crack in the dihedral and protect before pulling up over left and onto another slab. A few more friction moves. Belay at a 2-bolt/ring station.
Pitch 2: Diagonal left 30' over an easy bulge of rock to bolt 1. Climb straight up a slab with small intermittent cracks. Place cams when you can and look for bolts in a straight line to the ledge. Most folks will probably want to end here. There is a 2-bolt/ring station 20' back right or you can continue straight up to a natural belay at the base of the wall.
Pitch 3: Scramble 100' west along the ledge system. Belay at a 2-blade/chain station.

Protection 

I recommend bringing 8 cams (0.9"-2"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24"). The route is a bit runout in sections, but the hardest sections have protection close by.

History 

Bolted & cleaned June 2006-May 2007 with the help of Nathan Fisher, Dana Patterson (pitch 1) & Glen Kaplan (pitch 2).