Misty 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Penny Jordan, Darrell Jordan, Brett Blackwelder - 1991 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Jan 6, 2007 |
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I get MISTYYYY, thinking of you!
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Description If Comfortably Numb is the must-do trad line, Misty is the sport route not to be missed at Sand Rock. From crimpers to thin moves on a bulge to positive holds on steep overhang, Misty has it all. An outstanding and memorable lead.
Location Starts near the right end of the Sun Wall buttress, about 20' right of First Black in Space.
Protection Seven bolts, bolted anchors.
Working the crux on Misty. Photo by Frank N.
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Leading Misty. Photo by Frank N.
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The anchors at the top of Misty, Sandrock. Photo ...
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Paul on misty good old sand rock
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Eric gets funky delicious in February
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misty
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Misty
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The crux
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The fun bit
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By Claymsmith
Mar 21, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | Above the third bolt, the best flake is getting ready to give way. It moved a little while I was clipping and sounds pretty rotten. |
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Deeper South
Mar 29, 2007
| Crux is down low...from between the second and third bolt, it's straight cruising from there, up. Power thorugh it.
No doubt, one of the best routes for the area. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 18, 2008
| Great route. A must do. |
By mike cork
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 5, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| The scene of my first whipper! It's a reasonably safe route, but has good size fall potential if you get pumped and come off high on the route. I think I popped off trying to clip bolt 5 or 6, and took an exciting 25 footer. I also wouldn't want to fall getting to bolt #3 following the crux of the route.
The grade seems a little high (I'd suggest 10b), but then again I do this route every time I come to Sand Rock...classic. |
By justaguy11
Jan 15, 2012
| A bolt was added high on the route, below the chains, removing the pump crux and scary (but safe) longer fall potential. SO, given that all the risk, suspense, and challenge of the route has been removed, I recommend that the grade be lowered to 10a, or even 9+ unless the kiddie bolt is removed. |
By Greg Berry
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| The biggest jugs you'll ever let go of! 10b. A must do route. Can get busy on the weekend. There are no kiddie bolts on this one. If 10b is your limit you will love them all. Starts from the ground not from the top of the big boulder. |
By Michael Brannaka
Nov 15, 2012
| I only did this climb once before I moved away from the area in 2009. I want to do it again so bad. I took a couple falls trying to work out the crux down low. It's so balancy and feels really sketch. The rest is just pure fun. |
By Chris Ennis
May 12, 2013
| My favorite lead in the East so far! Highly recommended to all! |
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