Direct start is possible, but I suspect most folks angle in from the right and wire the bolt. Doesn't get done much judging from the friable flakes and the cleaning I did. I led up to the ledge and belayed from gear in a horizontal crack to watch the action. (The last bit to the top is maybe 15 feet of easy climbing.) It's probably 2 stars, but not worth the walk by itself. Good to do after CC.
Mister Sol is the left most climb on the "South Face" (faces West, if you ask me) of Asshole Rock; maybe a minute's walk left from Cardiac Crack. It's a good looking, straight-up, thin crack with a hangerless bolt up off the deck, just right of the crack. Descent is a walk off down the slabs to the north (left) to a tree, then hard left through a cleft next to the wall brings you right to your pack.
Small to medium nuts and small cams; maybe up to a #1 Camalot works. Hubbel says up to 3 inches, but I didn't bring or use one. Definitely bring a wire to saddle the bolt (the nut is on it).
At the start, after clipping the bolt stud.
|By Deaun Schovajsa|
Sep 18, 2008
First ascent, Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel, CT Traufield, late 1980s. I placed the bolt (my first ever) and yes, the idea was to traverse into the crack.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Short, but fun and worth doing after Cardiac Crack. It's a little dirty but not too bad.
|By Chris Mack|
Oct 2, 2012
OK route, worth doing once. The start is a little sketchy, and that bolt is complete crap.