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 ADVANCED
Asshole Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cardiac Crack T 
Mister Sol T 
Taint T,S 
Wild West Show T 
Unsorted Routes:

Mister Sol 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel, CT Traufield, late 1980s
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: rob bauer on Jul 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Moving past the bolt.

Description 

Direct start is possible, but I suspect most folks angle in from the right and wire the bolt. Doesn't get done much judging from the friable flakes and the cleaning I did. I led up to the ledge and belayed from gear in a horizontal crack to watch the action. (The last bit to the top is maybe 15 feet of easy climbing.) It's probably 2 stars, but not worth the walk by itself. Good to do after CC.


Location 

Mister Sol is the left most climb on the "South Face" (faces West, if you ask me) of Asshole Rock; maybe a minute's walk left from Cardiac Crack. It's a good looking, straight-up, thin crack with a hangerless bolt up off the deck, just right of the crack. Descent is a walk off down the slabs to the north (left) to a tree, then hard left through a cleft next to the wall brings you right to your pack.


Protection 

Small to medium nuts and small cams; maybe up to a #1 Camalot works. Hubbel says up to 3 inches, but I didn't bring or use one. Definitely bring a wire to saddle the bolt (the nut is on it).



Photos of Mister Sol Slideshow Add Photo
At the start, after clipping the bolt stud.
At the start, after clipping the bolt stud.
Rob stitching Mr Sol.
Rob stitching Mr Sol.
Victory!
Victory!
Another victory shot!
Another victory shot!
Comments on Mister Sol Add Comment
Show which comments
By Deaun Schovajsa
Sep 18, 2008

First ascent, Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel, CT Traufield, late 1980s. I placed the bolt (my first ever) and yes, the idea was to traverse into the crack.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Short, but fun and worth doing after Cardiac Crack. It's a little dirty but not too bad.

By Chris Mack
Oct 2, 2012

OK route, worth doing once. The start is a little sketchy, and that bolt is complete crap.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I did this again today because my partner had not done it before. It is short but is amusing if you are already in the area.