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 ADVANCED
Sunnyside Crags
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Day at Black Rocks T,S 
Cold September Corner T 
Gotham City T 
Hot August Night T 
Magellanic Cloud T 
Mercedes T 
Meteor T 
Mister Freeze's Face T,S 
Mister Masters T 
Pit Bull T 
Shady Ladies T 
Spring Break T 
Tarantula T 
Tie me Tightly T 
Van Allen Belt T 
Water Dog T 
Whiplash T 
Whipper T 

Mister Masters 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Danny Meyers; 1987
Page Views: 2,649
Submitted By: chad umbel on Jan 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Andy Hansen on Mister Masters. Jan 2012 mattkuehl...

Description 

Start just left of the obvious dihedral to the left of Mercedes and climb the steep crack with jugs till it slabs out. The anchors aren't visible from the ground nor the end of the steep climbing. You then break left on the very dark, polished face. You can toprope three other routes once you hit the anchors, which are Gothom City, Spring Break, and Tarantula. All of which are hard trad lines.

Protection 

Standard rack of cams, HB offsets are nice.


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By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 12, 2007

This is the steepest trad 5.9 I've been on. Its overhanging, yet tons of huge holds make it 5.9. Take some small gear (black alien) for the top slabby traverse.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

a second #2 camalot (or equivalent) will protect the traverse nicely...no need for micro gear.

really amazing climb, though- steep, fun, surprisingly well protected, and a thoughtful finish! full value for sure!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Excellent climb! Juggy thuggery on the bottom.... delicate and thoughtful up top. Plenty of protection up top that appears right when you need it (HB offsets went in perfectly). No move is very hard, but hanging out the place gear guarantees a 10- pump.

Be sure to find the best protection possible before starting the traverse to protect your second below.
By Stone Nude
Nov 3, 2011

Red River Gorge stylie! No crux on this but a pump crux. The traverse up top takes a good #3 camalot, I'd suggest SR-3" with doubles from .75"-3". With that rack you can place only cams, you can go with a single set of cams if you want to place some wires, which are fine, they'll just pump you out more.

The anchor on this has been replaced as off 11/11. You should be good to belay your second up and be able to lower or rap down from the 3-bolt station regardless of whether there's anyone TRing Spring Break.
By mmacelhi
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

STEEP but juggy with good gear. Super fun access to the harder climbs to the left if you want to TR them