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 ADVANCED
Block Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungi Man T 
Dance of Chance T 
Desperado T 
Hurt Dance T 
Mister Mantle T,S 
Queer Bait T 
Sex Dwarf T 
Wrist Never Sleeps T 

Mister Mantle 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 1st.pitch Olaf Mitchell and Maurice Reed / 2nd pitch Olaf Mitchell and Cathern Freer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Mar 25, 2007

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Steve" Mad Dog"Morris aproching the crux...

  • May 24, 2013 Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The crux is about 1/3 of the way up the 1st pitch It is well protected and the fall (if you take one) is a relatively gentle pendulum. The climbing is steep and sporting! The moves are elegant with no giveaway sections. There is steep slab climbing to a mantle before each bolt. There is no way to dog any part of this pitch. You have to climb it! There is a large ledge to belay from. Pitch two is a hand/fist crack.

    Location 

    MM is on the left side of Block Tower. Ascend an easy chimney up to a large ledge with comfortable boulders. If you only do the 1st pitch bring some gear to rap although there is probably fixed stuff? If you do the whole climb, we walked off the back and down climbed the gully between Block and Poe.

    Protection 

    Pitch #1 is all bolts drilled on lead from natural stances. Pitch #2 is regular Platte rack (cams and nuts).


    Comments on Mister Mantle Add Comment
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    By Kevin Stricker
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Apr 2, 2007

    For full value start this climb with Wrist Never Sleeps, then walk across a ledge to the start of the first pitch. I replaced most of the bolts on this route with bomber ASCA SS bolts. There were several 3/8" Rawl split-shaft bolts with Leeper hangers. These I only replaced the hangers.
    By Allen Hill
    From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
    Apr 6, 2007

    One of the best ones up there for sure.
    By Olaf Mitchell
    From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
    Oct 2, 2008

    Kevin, Thanks for your re-bolt efforts in the Spires. I am sure that this route will get more of the traffic that it deserves with bomber clips.