Mississippi Buttress Direct
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One of the best VS routes at Stanage and one of my favorite routes of all time. Sustained, varied, steep, aesthetic- this is the definition of classic. The climb generally follows a left facing flake system in a shallow corner on the face of Mississippi Buttress. Make a bouldery start on angular, slightly overhanging sandstone fins to gain a bridging rest. Here the rock begins to feel more like grit. Using a series of hand jams, improbably high steps, and bold smears on the left side of the corner, layback your way past a series of tricky bulges to gain a low-angle ladder of flakes. Hike these to the summit.
Takes the shallow inside corner smack in the middle of the hulking Mississippi Buttress, just right of Congo Corner. Descend via a gully left of the Buttress.
Can easily be done with passive gear. Plenty of finger width cracks and slots on this one.
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