A very unique experience in the heart of Mision Gorge. Traverse along the top of the Main Wall. We did left to right but it probably goes well both ways. Decent hand jams in a horizontal crack that splits the entire main wall. Feet tend to be greasy as usual at the Gorge. Many awkward moves throughout the climb but no real show stoppers. The holds just open up right when you need them. Make sure to protect your second! Only follow this route if you would also feel comfortable leading it.
Start at the top of Crack of Dust. Rightmost anchor on the ledge. Finish on top of a pillar of The Wasp.
Full rack from Black Alien to #4 Camalot. Nuts not that useful. Slings to clip rusty anchors along the way.
humpin' the bump
Following the Mission Gorge Traverse. Keeps you t...
1/4 thru on a right-to-left traverse
where's that next greasy foot?
From: the bedroom
Oct 25, 2010
Fun route, possibly easier right to left (I felt)...somehow the greasier feet hooked up better that way. Only used pro to 2" myself...
|By T.J. Esposito|
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2011
I was following this today and one of the three bird littered blocks at the top of Nutcracker, the nice one you can hug, broke free while i was hugging it (probably about the size of my upper torso or so?). Thankfully it wasn't while climbing Nutcracker, it would have been a horrible fall and incredibly dangerous (likely deadly if hit head-on) for the belayer.
Careful with the sheltered bird-harboring rocks at MG!
|By ron amick|
From: poway, ca
Jan 7, 2012
Be sure to place protection for the follower! If you run it out you will leave him looking at a grounder.
Jan 21, 2012
Super fun route. I found gear of all sizes to be useful, even nuts. This is an equal opportunity crack. Moving over the bulges near the top of nutcracker can be tricky, but I found the slippery feet near the finish to be the crux.