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Thin Air Face
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Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp 
Missing Link 
No Mans Land 
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Saigons, The 
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Thin Air 
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Worm Drive 

Missing Link 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Paul Ross July 1976
Page Views: 1,742
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 15, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Ed Webster on the first ascent of the Missing Link...


Climb Freedom or Missing Link... From the anchor, head up the face just right of Thin Air's 3rd pitch, somewhat runout on 5.6 climbing....
Climb to a crack leading up to the intimidating, roof section...climb the crack and make a few cool moves through the first roof (crux #1) and trend left to a good horizontal where you can protect with a good sized cam or two....
Get a blue TCU or similar piece ready....
Crux #2 contains more moves... Head left on good but crumbly crimps and in to a sloper or two and up to a finger lock slot...Slide your TCU in there and down to leave room for the lock.... A few more hard moves as you head over the last roof to good holds....
I then set a good directional and head left and down to the Thin Air belay, so I can get a front row seat to watch my second in the crux....

Most parties finish on Thin Air, though there is an independent line to finish on it needs to be cleaned....


This is the line going left through the orangish roofs just right of the chimney on Thin Air's 3rd pitch....


Standard rack.... Keep a blue TCU handy for the crux....

I guess it is worthy to note that there is a long runout (30-40ft) on 5.6 climbing that leads to the start of the "real" climbing on this route so be ready to keep your head in the game on the easy start...

Photos of Missing Link Slideshow Add Photo
hale... climbing
hale... climbing
Missing Link. Lancelot/Secret Chimp goes straight up over the final roof, where Missing Link continues trending left towards Thin Air.
BETA PHOTO: Missing Link. Lancelot/Secret Chimp goes straight ...
Hale flashing...Those who have done this route might remember this spot... this captures the moment well...
Hale flashing...Those who have done this route mig...
hale reaching for the finish and pumping out fast! but he made it
hale reaching for the finish and pumping out fast!...
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