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 ADVANCED
Peg Leg Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Best For Your Stick S 
catch the wave S 
Chili Dog S 
close to the bone S 
Clutching At Straws S 
Corn Dog S 
Dough Daddy S 
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 
men of iron T 
Miss Money Penny S 
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 
Promised Land S 
Sex Wax S 
surf's up S 
Take It To The Bank S 
Unknown Short Warmup S 

Miss Money Penny 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: bob d'antonio and richard aschert
Season: warmer Shelf months (shady)
Page Views: 97
Submitted By: slim on May 11, 2014

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Description 

Miss Money Penny is a fairly new route and a nice addition to the area. Scramble easily up onto the massive block and clip the first bolt. Stare at the confounding bulge. Hurl yourself upward through a dense 12c sequence that requires an odd combination of brutal lockdown strength and cunning technicality.

The first couple tries I didn't know if I liked this thing - it seemed impossible at the grade. When I accidentally figured it out, it really made my day. The remaining climbing is considerably easier but really fun, and the rock is cool.

Location 

The Peg Leg Wall is primarily broken up into 3 main walls. The trail comes up at the furthest right wall, at the base of 'Adversary'. Hiking to the left 200 feet, the next main wall has 'Clutching At Straws'. Another 100 feet to the left is the Bone Wall. This route is located at the Bone Wall and is the 3rd route from the right. It starts on top of a big, rectangular block.

Protection 

IIRC 4 bolts and anchors. Bring another couple draws just in case.


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