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Miss Conception 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1995
Season: any but winter
Page Views: 2,929
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Description 

This climb starts up a left-facing corner to a bulge and onto a small ledge to the left side of a roof. Pass this while moving right and around the roof, up to a fixed anchor.
I do not remember the second pitch well, but Swain states that you need draws for the 'many bolts' to continue up the second pitch on the right... I don't recall how many myself.
Rap on two 60 meter ropes from the second fixed anchor to the ground.

Location 

This is the next left-facing corner to the left of the area classics Mazatlan and Ixtalan, and is just to the right of the route Misunderstanding.

Protection 

A standard Rack + draws.


Photos of Miss Conception Slideshow Add Photo
short nice hand crack.
short nice hand crack.
No real need to, but the first two pitches combine...
No real need to, but the first two pitches combine...
Mo on P-2 of Miss Conception.
Mo on P-2 of Miss Conception.
Nearing the top of P-1 of Miss Conception.  It's a...
Nearing the top of P-1 of Miss Conception. It's a...
Miss Conception. Fun route!
Miss Conception. Fun route!
Joe departing on the second pitch. Photo by Patric...
Joe departing on the second pitch. Photo by Patric...

Comments on Miss Conception Add Comment
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By Cunning Linguist
May 2, 2007

Did this route today, and I'd give it 3 stars. Definitely more fun than Sand Felipe, although the overall quality of the bolts affects the fun factor of the climb. Assuming Swain hangers hold falls, I'd reccommend this one to anyone looking to stack on a few more pitches after doing some of the classics nearby. ASCA: this route needs a safe rap anchor! Two bolts, one really rusted hanger located six feet above the last, connected by rotting tat-ugh. Like the Misunderstanding, this one can be rapped with one rope, and the bolts on the second pitch number 10 or less. It is a sport pitch; I hope that's helpful-no gear required after first anchor.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jun 17, 2011

Great route. Pitch 1 takes single rack to 2", with double #2's. Pitch 2 is bolts, probably around 8 of them. All bolts and anchors are new and solid. 2 raps with a single 60 get you down.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Feb 2, 2012

How can the route Miss Conception be "...just to the right of the route Miss Conception." Do you mean "The Misunderstanding"?
By Pitty
From: Marbach
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X

climbed it today, found it at least 3 stars. third pitch is added but ends up with a runout to a 2 1/4 bolt anchor, don't understand why this anchor hasn't been changed as well.
with this hanging belay at two 1/4 absolutely dangerous! Recommend not to do the third pitch although it is the best of the three!
By Scott Cooper
Nov 4, 2013

Second pitch is stellar. Great exposure and fun moves.
By Josh Janes
Sep 15, 2014

P1 (5.9): Gear, then two bolts.

P2 (5.10a): Fully bolted (7 bolts).

P3 (5.10c): Fully bolted (10 bolts). No run out; anchor is replaced and bomber.

Three raps back down the route with a 60m rope.
By Justin Streit
Mar 8, 2015

A little clarification on gear in the style of JJ.

P1 (5.9): Beautiful gear crack, then two bolts to anchor. I placed .75, 1, and two 2's. Could have used more 1's and even another 2 and could have placed a 3, just didn't have them. No wires or small stuff needed.

P2 (5.10a/b): Bolts (8 maybe?). No gear. A little spacy, but not bad. Holds feel a little crispy, but everything holds.

P3 (5.10d/11a): Bolts (10 maybe?). No gear. Basically straight up passing a set of anchors to your right (at second to last bolt). Once you get to the last obvious bolt, continue up and left into a wide crack with big holds. The anchor, new and bombproof, is on a ledge and out of sight. This pitch is better than the second and totally worth doing.
By Justin Streit
Mar 9, 2015

Also, I think I left a GriGri II and locking carabiner at the bottom of this route. Please let me know if you found it. Would love it back. There was a horrible accident next to this route that day and I think I left it in the rush and confusion.
By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I'd agree with Justin, P3 felt a bit harder than 10c, more like 10+ dime edging for the last three bolts or so. There is a bit of runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt (~20ft) but it is easy. If you are worried take a #4 and protect the horizontal in between them. Awesome route!
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