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Right Wall
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Miss Brown 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: SCherry on Jan 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Excellent face climbing up a beautiful chunk of bullet hard brown rock, at the far left end of the "Right Wall". Just right of the obvious green streaked wall of "Tiki Man" (12b). This route marks the start of the steep recess that comprises the Right Wall

Pitch 1 begins at a bolted belay that is also shared as the start of the route "Tiki Man" which ascends the beautiful green streaked face. Reach up from the small ledge at the bolted belay and grab a large flake (caution: this may need some glue/reinforcement as it was flexing and cracked, so pull down, not out). Clip the first bolt and negotiate the steep crux (hint: heel hook). Reach up to a jug on the top left end of a ledge system and clip the second bolt. Mantle onto the ledge and get a shake at the base of some stacked corners to your left. Continue up on some amazingly cool holds and deceptively easy ground to a small overlap. Negotiate the second face climbing crux and climb up until you can exit into a big right facing corner.

From here you have 2 main options. To do the upper pitches continue up the corner to your left about 20 feet to an anchor below the routes "White Bulge" and "Right Bulge". Note that the upper pitches of "Miss Brown" require gear and ring in at 10d and 10a respectively. To do the route as a single pitch, clip a bolt out to the right of the corner and traverse up and right for 15-20 feet to a rappel anchor on the route "Mind Bender".


Location 

At the far left end of the steep recess of the "Right Wall". Just right of the obvious green face of "Tiki Man." Traverse the grassy ledge systems all the way to the left and the 1st set of anchor bolts (if counting from the right) just above a small ledge system. A short bit of 4th class must be negotiated to reach the anchor bolts at the base. You can also approach from the left side of the wall by traversing up and right from Lunch Rock (on second attempt this may be easier as it avoids more of the chossy ledge scrambling).

If doing just the first pitch you can lower with a 60 meter rope.


Protection 

12 quickdraws for pitch one. Standard rack if you decide to do the final 2 gear pitches



Comments on Miss Brown Add Comment
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By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 22, 2011

Next time I climb this first pitch I plan on bringing either some spare carabiners or some quick links so I can equip the anchor at the top of the corner for a lower-off. This will make climbing Miss Brown as a single pitch route much easier to clean. Of course, you still have the option to traverse right to the Mind Bender anchors and do some upper pitches/lower off from there.

By Leavittator
May 2, 2012

SCherry, you can lower off the Mind Bender Anchors and there are quick links there.