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Misplaced Childhood
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 10
votes
Routes in El Pati
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Crosta Panic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crosta Panic extension S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dogma S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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El Coridon de la Muerta S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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El prado del rey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gato Lerdo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jeketepeke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lame Chucha Baby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Misplaced Childhood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mucho Tronco, poca Madera S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sexo Sentido S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Viagraman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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¡Ay mamita! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,468 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Dec 3, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
Spectacular! This route (unlike the rest of the small sample of routes I climbed on my short visit) fully lived up to Siurana's reputation for thin, technical climbing with a stiff grade attached to it. The guidebook called it 7b (12b) and I'm calling BS. (the fact that it was post-rain and chalkless may have had something to do with my opinion though)
Approach by climbing Jeketepeke. Instead of clipping the chains, reach high off the ledge to a bolt out left and try and figure out the first move. Once you commit, hang on for a sustained and wild ride up this gorgeous, slightly overhung arete. Tenuous and technical movement links beautiful positions from bottom to top. Expect to have to work to clip some of the bolts.
The guidebook is a little unclear, but if you add the length for Jekepeteke (25m) and this line (also 25m) you get the impression that you need a 100m rope. This is not the case. We had a meter or so to spare with our 70, so watch your ends.
Approach by climbing Jeketepeke. Instead of clipping the chains, reach high off the ledge to a bolt out left and try and figure out the first move. Once you commit, hang on for a sustained and wild ride up this gorgeous, slightly overhung arete. Tenuous and technical movement links beautiful positions from bottom to top. Expect to have to work to clip some of the bolts.
The guidebook is a little unclear, but if you add the length for Jekepeteke (25m) and this line (also 25m) you get the impression that you need a 100m rope. This is not the case. We had a meter or so to spare with our 70, so watch your ends.
Location
Technically this line is in the sector El Cargol, but is right next to El Pati and it's such a small sector that it didn't make sense to add a whole new wall for the handful of routes here... The climb starts in a crack splitting the west face of the tower that defines the right side of El Pati.
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