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at the stance between the two cruxes.
This excellent route lies about 50 feet uphill and right of Effigy Too. Start left and below a large boulder. [Beginning off the boulder and traversing left avoids the first 15+ feet of thin crack]. Up a very thin crack then into a left leaning corner (1st bolt). Continue up until established on face above corner (11a); another bolt protects moves to a horizontal. Head right around the corner then up face past the 3rd and last bolt (10b/c).
Lots of varied climbing and cool moves. Descend left, then down chimney (behind Effigy Too & Out On A Limb).
Very small nuts and cams for thin crack with gear in the .5 to 1 inch range. Runners helpful on gear in horizontal above 2nd bolt. A couple 2-2.5 inch pieces are needed if the bolt anchors are missing. Currently two bolt anchor (and should stay that way).
Jan 13, 2004
Skip the thin crack?!?
Jan 13, 2004
Maybe my description was not very clear. The route heads straight up the thin crack, but it is possible to avoid it (some people do) by traversing in left from atop the boulder. The route is definitely better if done from the ground, up the thin crack.
Nov 28, 2006
I honestly think this route deserves more than 2 stars. It was a good find by Paul and has some creative climbing with a quite interesting finish. Some good climbers have fallen off the crux getting over the bulge too.
|By Kris Spevak|
Nov 19, 2007
I loved this route, it's got a little bit of everything. Really fun-4 stars for sure.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 1, 2008
Bolted anchor is in place as of 11/29/08. Very cool climbing, technical rather than pumpy or hard pulling. Topout is "interesting" to say the least.