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 ADVANCED
Misery Rocks

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
False Perspective T,TR 
Fat Man's Misery TR 
In the Way T 
Life of Jam T,TR 
Pillow Right Side, The T 
Pillow's Edge T 
Pillow, The T,TR 
Smoke Hole T,TR 
Tree Slot Chimney T 
unnamed route to left T,TR 
Wailing Wall TR 
Weeping Wall TR 

Misery Rocks  


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Page Views: 4,061
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Apr 30, 2002
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Peter Arndt on Pillows Edge (5.8)

Description 

Misery is so named for the feeling one gets when attempting to climb here on the weekend. Ease of access and many good beginner climbs (along with some pretty hard routes) makes this a very popular area for groups.

The climbs in this area have been blessed with a great, flat hang out area at the bottom. Most routes have been led, but for obvious reasons, some are more popular than others. The Pillow, an aptly named rock slab leaning against the right side of Misery Rocks, offers great slab routes on its front side and shelter from the rain on the other side.

Getting There 

To access Misery, head up the West bluff trail from the South until you see a freeway off ramp-style pull off. If you have reached Cleo's Ampitheater, you have gone too far.Follow this dirt trail to the top of the cliff.


Climbing Season



Weather station 3.6 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Misery Rocks:
Fat Man's Misery   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     TR, 45'   
The Pillow Right Side   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
The Pillow   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   
False Perspective   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   
Pillow's Edge   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 50'   
Weeping Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR   
Wailing Wall   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR   
Browse More Classics in Misery Rocks

Featured Route For Misery Rocks
Dawson Robb starting out on the long, blocky leaning tower.

Pillow's Edge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Misery Rocks
It's the edge of the pillow, duh. Start near (not on) upward protruding rock that looks very unappealing in the case of a fall. Use the arete to gain the first horizontal and place a good cam. From here you have options... and you have to find those options. Place marginal gear along the way and try not to fall. Finish in cool finger crack at the top to a pleasant mantle finish. A true sportsman wouldn't bail into the chimney of Fat Man's Misery......[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Comments on Misery Rocks Add Comment
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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Apr 24, 2006
We set up at Misery on Saturday and arrived about 10 minutes before a scout leader. This seems to be a very popular place for scouts, college groups, etc. The climing is very enjoyable, and the view ain't bad either. The pine tree at the top of the cliff was sheared off this winter, perhaps by the wind? Thankfully it fell to the south, so it isn't in the way of any of the routes.
By Benjamin Rudy
Jun 18, 2012
I am an independent climber as well as a scout leader. Misery is a good place for both, but it can get crowded. Go to Cleo's Amphitheater if you want to have a less crowded time. Make sure you bring an extra rope for the shady access route.