Peter Arndt on Pillows Edge (5.8)
Misery is so named for the feeling one gets when attempting to climb here on the weekend. Ease of access and many good beginner climbs (along with some pretty hard routes) makes this a very popular area for groups.
The climbs in this area have been blessed with a great, flat hang out area at the bottom. Most routes have been led, but for obvious reasons, some are more popular than others. The Pillow, an aptly named rock slab leaning against the right side of Misery Rocks, offers great slab routes on its front side and shelter from the rain on the other side.
To access Misery, head up the West bluff trail from the South until you see a freeway off ramp-style pull off. If you have reached Cleo's Ampitheater, you have gone too far.Follow this dirt trail to the top of the cliff.
Weather station 3.6 miles from here
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Misery Rocks
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Misery Rocks:
Featured Route For Misery Rocks
The Pillow 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI
: Devil's Lake
: ... : Misery Rocks
This formation varies in difficulty, both in the climbing and the ability to protect. South edge (grabbing the edge is off) is a balancy slab with many high steps, as you move north the climbing gets easier and the pro gets better. Either route comes back to the left (south) to pass through the small roof at the top. On lead, the climber is looking at a fall onto the slab until well past the roof and into the finish moves. While these moves are easy, the fall potential should not be taken li...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Apr 24, 2006
We set up at Misery on Saturday and arrived about 10 minutes before a scout leader. This seems to be a very popular place for scouts, college groups, etc. The climing is very enjoyable, and the view ain't bad either. The pine tree at the top of the cliff was sheared off this winter, perhaps by the wind? Thankfully it fell to the south, so it isn't in the way of any of the routes.
By Benjamin Rudy
Jun 18, 2012
I am an independent climber as well as a scout leader. Misery is a good place for both, but it can get crowded. Go to Cleo's Amphitheater if you want to have a less crowded time. Make sure you bring an extra rope for the shady access route.