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> Upper Wall (aka "The…
Mirage
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 516 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Nick Russell on Nov 20, 2013 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
A brilliant Upper Wall testpiece, with a reputation for spitting people off!
Set off easily up the crack to a decent rest at a ledge about half way up. Place a nest of gear (medium-large nuts) then power up the continuation of the crack until it fades a couple of metres above the ledge. (It's possible, but strength-sapping, to place a small cam - about .4 or .5 - in this section.)
At this point you will really start to feel how steep the wall is as you make a couple of desperate lunges off crimps to gain good holds above. Much easier climbing up a narrow corner takes you to the belay bolts.
Set off easily up the crack to a decent rest at a ledge about half way up. Place a nest of gear (medium-large nuts) then power up the continuation of the crack until it fades a couple of metres above the ledge. (It's possible, but strength-sapping, to place a small cam - about .4 or .5 - in this section.)
At this point you will really start to feel how steep the wall is as you make a couple of desperate lunges off crimps to gain good holds above. Much easier climbing up a narrow corner takes you to the belay bolts.
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