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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: C, Harrison, S. Michaels, 1981
Season: Faces W/SW
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Tony B on May 27, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


A so-so route with more lichen and loose rock on it than a single star would indicate. Thusly, a bomb. The climbing itself was not bad, but with really nothing to redeem itself, having less than great rock quality puts it in the category of things that I'd tell people not to bother with.


The route lies just left of Parallels and Clean Dan on the West Ridge. It is accessed by going up a short and shallow, right-facing corner for 3 meters and left behind a tree to reach more solid rock... once there drift left into a very small and shallow "notch" resembling a tiny broken dihedral that faces directly outward... up that crux on some crimpers past some bad gear and one loose-tips-sized (maybe ~0.3") cam in a VERY specific placement, just above a broken flake that would NOT hold... and then up and right across some slightly less-than-vertical face running it out for the upper half of the route on moderate climbing (5.7) to a tree with a few bits of webbing, a tiny rapid link, and a junk biner off of my nut tool that I backed it up with. Rap 80' to the ground.


And few pieces early on, the rope behind a tree, a few more pieces including very small brass in less-than-perfect rock. The last and most critical gear is a small cam in a small section of crack that is solid, right above a broken section that won't hold good gear. This will be it for a while and is only 1/2 way up the route.

The route gets a well-deserved R-rating in the Levin guidebook.

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