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Routes in Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) - CLOSED
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Botox S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dope S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Faith S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Leper S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Leprosy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Minutia S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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New 1 S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rosebudd S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Soul Crusher S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Unknown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,373 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jun 27, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Closed to the Public for Sensitive Archaeological Resources
Details
The Forest Service issued a temporary closure of Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) to all public access in order to perform an archaeological survey. For all intents and purposes, this temporary closure order should be considered a *permanent* closure order.
Impacts to the cave's nationally significant archaeological resources are the major concern.
Impacts to the cave's nationally significant archaeological resources are the major concern.
Description
This is a fun little route that is surprisingly long for how low it is to the ground through out.
Climb out steep rock on mostly good holds with the occasional undercling staying to the right of the bolt line. Eventually you will make tough moves around a large square block embedded in the wall near the 3rd bolt (crux, in this area is a variation finish which heads straight up and looks hard) After this head out the roof a bit more past another bolt, then more or less up through some smaller but positive holds pulling the bulge onto the face above.
This route can be started in several places.
Climb out steep rock on mostly good holds with the occasional undercling staying to the right of the bolt line. Eventually you will make tough moves around a large square block embedded in the wall near the 3rd bolt (crux, in this area is a variation finish which heads straight up and looks hard) After this head out the roof a bit more past another bolt, then more or less up through some smaller but positive holds pulling the bulge onto the face above.
This route can be started in several places.
- From a sit start well below the line of bolts, this would add about 15 feet of roof climbing before you get to the highest possible start, might even add a letter grade.
- The highest, most logical start is from a high jug with a square lip that has a coat of epoxy on it. This hold id just big enough to get two hands into.
- You could also start the route anywhere between these 2 points
Location
This is the furthest left start in the left hand cave. The fixed chains have brown tape on them and there is an additional "first" bolt a little further left of the line to keep the rope out of the way. Climb out the roof past 4 fixed chains then up the headwall.
Protection
One bolt to the left of the line, clippable from the ground to keep the rope out of the way. Followed by 6 bolts with fixed chains and brown tape holding the biners. 4 out the roof and 2 more straight over. Lower off the last bolt or move left to an anchor.
A good belay is a must as you could hit the ground from just about anywhere on this route
A good belay is a must as you could hit the ground from just about anywhere on this route
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