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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Minty Warren, Betty Woolsey, 1941
Page Views: 7,600
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Hole on P2
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  • Description 

    A justly popular beginner's outing. This route is easily located by finding the "Minty Tree" - the first significant pine tree on the left side of the carriage road. An access trail leads straight to the climb from this tree. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

    P1: Climb a right-facing dihedral to a ledge, then work left and up aiming for a severely leaning pine tree. 5.3, 120'.

    P2: Start up a corner and immediately step around left and climb a face past a couple of pins to another corner. Again, climb up and the around left. A hole in a flake here provides some unique pro. Up the face to a pin and then on up (crux) to easier ground and the GT ledge. Belay at a rap anchor. 5.4, 60'.

    P3: The usual route climbs an easy crack off the right side of the ledge. 5.2, 50'.

    A much more worthwhile finish is the "Minty Overhang", rising directly above the belay tree. A pin marks the spot when you pull through. 5.5, 50'.

    Descend either by walking far left to the Uberfall, or walking not very far at all to climber's right to rappel Mme G's. The bolt anchor at Mme G's is somewhat hidden on a huge boulder that's an easy scramble down from the clifftop, and the bolts themselves are on the outside face.


    Standard Gunks rack.

    Photos of Minty Slideshow Add Photo
    5.3 can't get much better!
    5.3 can't get much better!
    At the start--Natalia on her first day climbing.
    At the start--Natalia on her first day climbing.
    Robert leads P2 of Minty.  Photo by Chuck P.
    Robert leads P2 of Minty. Photo by Chuck P.
    Curious scene on the last rap coming down from Minty at the top Bag's End P1.
    Curious scene on the last rap coming down from Min...
    Ritwik leading the Minty Overhang
    Ritwik leading the Minty Overhang
    Belay I used for the top of P1. There is a horrible looking protusion to the right of this tree which people seem to trust for their raps ... I shot for the Bag's End tree when coming down from P2. This tree didn't make me feel very fuzzy and warm, but much more than the other.
    BETA PHOTO: Belay I used for the top of P1. There is a horribl...
    Alex taking a break after pulling the 5.5 roof variation.  Yet, another great pitch!
    Alex taking a break after pulling the 5.5 roof var...
    The original finish to the right of the roof
    The original finish to the right of the roof
    The 5.5 overhang
    The 5.5 overhang
    Climber following Minty's steep 2nd pitch.
    Climber following Minty's steep 2nd pitch.
    Comments on Minty Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2013
    By Taino
    From: South Salem, NY
    Dec 27, 2006
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

    The original Minty route goes up the right-facing corner from the pine tree ledge belay. If you go that way, it is indeed 5.3. The variation of stepping left onto the face and going straight up past "the hole in the rock" goes more 5.4+.


    By adrenalated
    From: Thornton, CO
    Jun 15, 2008
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

    Ever had a day when you just didn't feel like climbing something difficult? Do this climb.
    I wasn't a huge fan of the Minty Overhang, but the rest of the route is fantastic.

    By doligo
    May 9, 2010
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

    One of the best 5.3s in the Gunks (the other is Beginner's Delight), and yes, you have to step on the face - the exposure is wild! Plus the corner is another route - Tipsy Trees.

    By Ross Bickhart
    Jun 20, 2011

    Another method of descent is to head 150 feet or so to climber's right after completing the climb. There is a large rock platform roughly 20 feet lower in elevation. There is a little bit of minor downclimbing involved but it is fairly easy, and you are not close to the edges of the platform. There is a bolted rappel station on this platform -- the Madame G's rappel. You can get to the ground in two raps with one rope here.

    The bolts are adjacent to a large pine tree at the front of the platform. Clip the rings with your anchor / cowtail for safety by peering over the rock that sticks up next to the big pine tree. Once you are clipped in, you can safely step around and set up your ropes for rappel.

    By Kevin Heckeler
    From: Upstate New York
    Jul 28, 2011

    A must climb for anyone learning to lead. I've led the first two pitches several times. Good near vertical climbing at times, and it's actually 5.3 The crux move is at the bottom, if you're taller it's much easier. Pitch 3 is okay but not worth the extra effort of having to head over to the Madame G's rap (plus there's sometimes a line there). Madame G's is more like 300+ feet climber's right, fwiw.

    I will continue to rap after pitch 2.

    By Galen Rahmlow
    From: Weehawken
    May 1, 2012

    The belay at the end of the first pitch is in rough shape, best to build one.

    By kenr
    Jun 9, 2012
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

    The crux (for non-tall people) of the route is at the start of P1, dealing with small footholds and not well-placed handholds alongside the low right-facing corner (I'd say at least 5.4). Leaders should make sure their followers are well-protected from above on that move.

    That "severely leaning pine tree" is a good thing to aim toward in P1, but an awkward spot to belay from. More comfortable to instead to go past that pine tree and build a gear anchor at the base of the Right-facing corner. (Or continue even farther + higher before stopping to belay).

    Climbing straight up that Right-facing corner is an obvious thing to do, but it puts you on a different climb, "Tipsy Trees". Stepping around left is a bit intimidating -- but also one of the things that makes Minty one of the more interesting easy routes (and better than Tipsy Trees). Going that way does not raise the difficulty rating of the climb, because the P1 crux is a harder move.
    (Anyway it's true that some leaders choose to avoid that section by temporarily switching to Tipsy Trees, then traversing left a bit higher up to rejoin Minty below the next higher right-facing corner.)

    The "hole in the flake" is one of several threaded protection opportunities on Minty, so if you enjoy that sort of thing, bring lots of runners and look carefully.

    Above the GT ledge, the main route is not so interesting and my memory from years ago is that the overhang variation isn't much more so. Therefore I normally stop the climb at the GT ledge, walk right (north) on the ledge like 20-30 feet to the Tipsy Trees route at an obvious big tree, and rappel off that. With double ropes this is a rather nice clean rappel line all the way down to the bottom. With only one rope I forget how it works -- I sorta think you have to diagonal a bit to the north to reach a lower tree or something for a second rappel.

    By Stephanie Chick
    Sep 26, 2012

    In fact, if you rap Tipsy Trees 20ft right from where Minty reaches the GT with a 6o meter, your rope will be about 4ft short of the ledge where you will find a the second (intermediate) rap station about seven feet off to the right. I did this, and it involved a bit of un-roped down climbing and short traverse along the ledge.

    I would say this is an important consideration for decent, and in the future when climbing with a single 60 meter, would finish the last pitch up from the GT and walk 50ft left to rap Snookys.

    This situation could possibly be remedied by moving the Tipsy Trees rap station -webbing and rings- to the base of the tree (it is now 4ft up in the crotch of the tree) This would provide a safe ride to the ledge, then just a few steps right to the second rap station...


    By JSH
    Sep 27, 2012

    I think .... rope lengths vary, and I'm *really* glad you watched the ends of your rope.

    By Kevin Heckeler
    From: Upstate New York
    Oct 28, 2012

    Stephanie, I think you may want to check the length of your rope. I only climb with a 60m and have never had a problem reaching the raps stations on Tipsy Trees.

    By kswissto
    Oct 17, 2013

    Crux of P1 is a bit height-dependent. If you're tall, it won't seem bad. If you're shorter, it's more of a 5.4. Rest of the climb is standard 5.3.