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Mint Julep 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Haisley, Paul Davidson (early 80's)
Season: Spring thru Fall
Page Views: 695
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 7, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mint Julep is a nice line that probably doesn't get as much attention as it deserves. The start is a little wandering and not all that distinct in terms of crack, which may be the reason. But the upper part is challenging and enjoyable.

Initial wandering on the face and discontinuous cracks to the right of Morning's Morning gets you to the clean corner above. Finger locks and technical face climbing will get you to the top.


Location 

This route is located about ten feet to the right of Morning's Morning. The upper portion is easily identified as a nice corner with a left-leaning finger crack.


Protection 

Nuts, cams up to #2 Camalot size. Take a few extras in the small cam range, from 00 TCU on up.



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By David Arthur Sampson
May 14, 2007

Although the start is dirty and diffuse, the line is actually quite nice. This route does, however, have two cruxes where pro is either thin (bottom crux moving over a bulge) or absent (at the top, exiting the crack). Bring your big guns for doing this route!

By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007

First ascent: Jim Haisley, Paul Davidson (early 80's)

By Paul Davidson
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Hmmm....
I think John Fleming might have actually had the first lead on this and it would have been in '78. edit - yes, this was a Fleming lead fur shure.

My recollection is that some of the smallest wires are very handy up at the exiting moves.

Then there are the two Grossman routes to the right of this climb. One is just right and quite exciting, the next is the left side of Orange Out direct. Sorry, can't recall the names.

Found notes, see pic. Orange Julius (davidson/fleming), Sneak Preview (Grossman et al) and Agent Orange (Grossman et al).

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 6, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

this is one of the few routes where a shorter person could legitimately say that s/he was shafted. at 5'10" the move exiting the crack felt like solid 5.9. i then belayed two of my buddies up and watched the 5'8" guy do a move that looked like hard 9/easy 10, and the 5'6" guy do a really, REALLY delicate lieback that looked like it could have gone as hard as 10c.

By Micah Kurtz
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I found the bottom broken section to be very dirty. I am wondering if this route doesn't see a lot of climbs. The crack was fun but short.