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Minstrel in the Gallery S 
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Yaak Crack S 

Minstrel in the Gallery 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Tupper, 1990
Page Views: 3,989
Submitted By: Michael Kimm on Jun 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Mike on Minstrel, November 2008

Description 

Starts between A Day in the Life and Yaak Crack, next to a small tree. A bouldery start leads to a very thin and very sustained overhung face. The holds get bigger and the wall steeper as you go. 5.12a if you start off the shelf behind.

Protection 

Bolts to Chain Anchors.


Photos of Minstrel in the Gallery Slideshow Add Photo
Me leading Minstrel in the Gallery.  It seemed as though a hold was missing about half-way up on the right.  I was able to do a crimpy sequence to the left at that point, which still felt like 12a/b. <br /> <br />Starting from the ground is quite fun and highly recommended.
Me leading Minstrel in the Gallery. It seemed as ...
Michael Kimm works Minstrel at an empty Gallery.
Michael Kimm works Minstrel at an empty Gallery.
90's redpoint courtesy of Casio G-Shock.  Erik Gearhart, 1993.
90's redpoint courtesy of Casio G-Shock. Erik Gea...

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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 27, 2011
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

On 1/27/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the first pro bolt on this route with a 1/2 x 2.75" SS 5-piece.

On 1/29/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the second to last pro bolt on this route with a 1/2 x 3.75" 5-piece bolt. The anchors were also replaced with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped with mussy hooks.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

fantastic route, definitely harder than the Prophet and Tour De Pump. stays with you the whole way, but if you can make it to the one big jug on the route and get some back, you can probably clip the chains.

This route lost a key hold in recent years- ticking up the difficulty of the route off the ledge to .12b. Add the tough start of equal difficulty, and this route stays with you the whole way. I'd say this is .12b/c if you're tall, if you're short, it's solid .12c as you cannot avoid the heinous crimps passing the second bolt.