||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||John Steiger, Carson Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 2010. Right: Brent Manning, Steiger, Sept. 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||794|
|Submitted By: ||John Steiger on Nov 23, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Far-right side of the northwest face of Strone Cra...
This good (but short) trad pitch can serve as an alternative first pitch to Starstruck, or, better yet, a quick warm-up before jumping on Starstruck. There are fixed anchors on top that make for a convenient lower back to the base. Begin in a short right-facing dihedral left of Starstruck. Climb 25 or so feet up and right to a ledge. Above is a short roof presenting two options, a crack skirting the roof on its left or a crack in a left-facing dihedral that passes the roof to the right.
Minotaur (5.7+) takes the left crack, past the roof, to a bigger set of roofs. At the roofs, traverse left, just over the lip of the lowest roof, for 15 feet or so until possible to climb straight up steep but juggy face to the anchors. Great position, good rock, and ample protection opportunities.
A variation, Minotaur Right (5.8), takes the dihedral that passes the roof to the right. Once over the roof, step left to a crack (the crack to the right is Starstruck) leading up and over another roof to the anchors. The position on Minotaur Right is not as good as Minotaur, and it needs a bit of scrubbing, so I’d stick with the latter unless you’re out to bag all the moderates on Strone.
There are some small oak shoots in the first 20 or so feet of the climb that might need cutting back every once in a while. Consider bringing some small clippers; the next party will be thankful.
Starts 15 left of the first pitch of Starstruck. See Starstruck for the approach and the photodiagram on the main page for Strone Crag. The anchors are rigged for lowering or a rappel.
Set of wired stoppers (incude brass), set of cams to 2 inches. Two bolts for the belay.
By ted coxworth
Jul 29, 2011
For a little something extra, I recommend climbing through the little roof directly below the chains. Don't know about pro because I did it on TR, but fun moves that help get the blood flowing. Maybe 5.9+?
By Mark Kadlec
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
I climbed under the roof and around to join, felt like 5.8 with some ok pro. Highly recommend the variation if you like climbing under roofs.