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South Face
Routes Sorted
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10b or not 10b T 
Archangel T 
Crucifiction T 
Disco Jesus T 
Hades T 
Hell's Angel T 
It's a Mayracole T 
Knocking on Heaven's Door T 
Major T 
Minor T 
Minuet T 
Miscalculation T 
Palm Sunday T 
Picante T 
Short Story T 
Spring Cleaning T 


YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This clean, well-protected hand crack is in the sun all day. It would be a good route for a novice leader. You can rappel from the top.


mostly hand-sized pieces

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By Ben Crowell
Jul 25, 2015
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

I thought it was hard to reconcile Vogel's 5.1 rating on this with his 5.6 rating on the nearby Spring Cleaning. They both felt mostly about 5.3 to me in modern ratings. Probably this is because of the many decades of grade inflation separating the times when the two ratings were assigned. A 4" cam can be used near the top. We found it a little hard to identify Minor from the Vogel guidebook, which doesn't give much of a verbal description and appears to mislabel the route on the topo, showing it as if it were the mossy-chossy 4th class gully way off to the right. Going from left to right, I think you have (1) Major, a chimney; (2) Minor, a fist crack; (3) an unnamed 5.0 finger crack with a tree growing in it; and (4) the mossy gully. Rap off with a single 60 m rope from the bolts at the top of Spring Cleaning (not the horn described by Vogel, which requires two ropes).

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