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Minor details in technique that make the difference
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Mar 19, 2012
As is often the case in many disciplines it is the minor details that make all the difference in executing a technique with success. For instance on a reachy overhanging deadpoint it often helps me to push through my toes (consciously) longer than perhaps needed to make that grab in order to not cut loose.

What are some details that increase the success rate of a particular move for you?
Joshua1979
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
33 points
Mar 19, 2012
Profile pic taken at Muir Beach.
Good balance. Slow, controlled moves. Gary N
From Durango, CO
Joined Jul 26, 2010
475 points
Mar 19, 2012
If hot chicks are watching I will stick it. If they are not watching I will yell a couple times to make sure they are looking and then I will stick it. JJNS
Joined Sep 30, 2008
505 points
Mar 19, 2012
Mental Games Apple Valley
JasonJNSmith wrote:
If hot chicks are watching I will stick it. If they are not watching I will yell a couple times to make sure they are looking and then I will stick it.
Andrew williams
Joined Sep 4, 2010
27 points
Administrator
Mar 19, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
Gary N wrote:
Good balance. Slow, controlled moves.


works well for some things, not for others though. i think a lot of people misuse and abuse this skill and it stunts their growth.

one thing that i have been working on is trying to throw my hips, usually to the side, in order to pop a foot up (instead of weighting my arms and lifting the foot). i have found this to really save my arms, and i have improved my ability to get my foot onto the next hold accurately and quickly.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,001 points
Mar 19, 2012
Its all about the thumbs. Sidepulls, gastons, crimps, slopers, etc. Especially useful on vertical terrain when you can underclingthumbcatchforlife!!! tenesmus
Joined Jan 7, 2004
2,614 points
Mar 19, 2012
slim wrote:
works well for some things, not for others though. i think a lot of people misuse and abuse this skill and it stunts their growth.


+1

Knowing when to be slow and controlled and knowing when to be explosive and accurate is a valuable skill. Switching between the two in an instant is also something I strive for. I think it was rock warrior's way that said to be cat like. Cats are graceful and balanced one moment and then in the blink of an eye they jump distances many times greater than their body length. They never seem to miss calculate either, always using exactly the right amount of force without waste.
JJNS
Joined Sep 30, 2008
505 points
Mar 19, 2012
Me and Spearhead
The terror of climbing waayyyy above shitty gear always seems to help me focus just a little bit more. Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
141 points
Mar 22, 2012
Good points about getting the thumbs involved and using the hips. I am conscious of throwing the hips inward at times when making an upward hand movement but will try and pay more attention and do what your talking about to see how it works for me.

Good stuff...Keep it coming.
Joshua1979
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
33 points
Mar 22, 2012
JasonJNSmith wrote:
+1 Knowing when to be slow and controlled and knowing when to be explosive and accurate is a valuable skill. Switching between the two in an instant is also something I strive for. I think it was rock warrior's way that said to be cat like. Cats are graceful and balanced one moment and then in the blink of an eye they jump distances many times greater than their body length. They never seem to miss calculate either, always using exactly the right amount of force without waste.


Clearly you have not met my cat.
Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
Administrator
Mar 22, 2012
Belay
Brent Apgar wrote:
The terror of climbing waayyyy above shitty gear always seems to help me focus just a little bit more.

Amazing how true this is. If only I could place a marginal brass offset below some of my boulder projects...

Actively remembering to point through your toes and turning your hips almost to an exaggerated degree will do wonders for gently overhanging routes. It's too easy to stand flat-footed and square-hipped, then bitch about not having done enough campus board training to stick a tough move.
Peter Franzen
From Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
4,021 points
Mar 23, 2012
As we like to say in the model making shop.

Don't fuck up
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points


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