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Palisade Head 
Shovel Point 

Tettegouche SP (North Shore)

Submitted By: nodin on Apr 5, 2006
Administrators: Glenn Burns, Darin Limvere, James Loveridge
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Palisade Head with Shovel Point in the background


Description 

Tettegouche is the crown jewel of Minnesota climbing. Palisade Head boasts 100 or so climbs with potential for more and Shovel Point holds dozens of climbs. Dramatically positioned over Lake Superior, both areas carry an air of seriousness not found at other Minnesota crags. All climbs must be rapped in to lead or top-roped from above.

There is a strict no-chalk ethic in the area and nailing and bolting is not allowed. That being said, you will occassionally find people using chalk here and you will find old in-situ pins as well as old (and not so old) bolts on some climbs. A free permit to climb is required by the state park and can be picked up during business hours at the park headquarters. Some people get passionate about the chalk debate.

Both areas are good places to wear helmets as tourists abound. Be nice to them and hopefully they'll be nice to us.


Getting There 

Just north of Silver Bay and about 60 Miles north of Duluth on Highway 61. It's pretty hard to miss the sign for Tettegouche.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tettegouche SP (North Shore):
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries   5.8     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Shovel Point
Phantom Crack   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Palisade Head
Bluebells   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Palisade Head
Scars and Tripes Forever   5.10a     Trad, 200 feet   Palisade Head
Ross's Crack   5.10b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Shovel Point
Laceration Jam   5.10b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet   Palisade Head
Rapprochement   5.10b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Palisade Head
Urge to Mate   5.10c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Palisade Head
A Feathery Tong   5.10d     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Palisade Head
Driving in Duluth   5.11b R     Trad, 100 feet   Palisade Head
Hidden Treasure   5.11b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Palisade Head
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight"   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet   Palisade Head
Yellow Feather   5.11c     Trad, 75 feet   Palisade Head
Narcoleptic Epic   5.11d     Trad, TR, 70 feet   Shovel Point
Poseidon Adventure   5.11d PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 80 feet   Palisade Head
Mr. Lean   5.11d     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Palisade Head
Soli Deo Gloria   5.12b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Palisade Head
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City)   5.12b     Trad, 1 pitch, 175 feet   Palisade Head
Superior Arete   5.12c     TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Palisade Head
Palisaid   5.13a     Trad   Palisade Head
Browse More Classics in Tettegouche SP (North Shore)

Featured Route For Tettegouche SP (North Shore)
amphitheatre stone wall lookout/barricade. rapprochement is located just over the middle of the wall. (hidden treasure is about 10 feet to the left of the wall; 5ft to the right is ex nihilo).

Rapprochement 5.10b  MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head
From RCM&WA reachy crux near the bottom leads to slightly easier climbing above. Start on the face between Ex Nihilo and Sunny and Sheer. Climb up through double cracklets (crux at pin) and enter the 5.9 corner above....[more]   Browse More Classics in MN


Photos of Tettegouche SP (North Shore) Slideshow Add Photo
A shot of the north end of Palisade Head from Shovel Point.

A shot of the north end of Palisade Head from Shov...

The Northern Ramparts with Shovel Point in the background.

The Northern Ramparts with Shovel Point in the bac...

September mid day atop Palisade Head.

September mid day atop Palisade Head.


Comments on Tettegouche SP (North Shore) Add Comment
Show which comments —
By K Ice
From: Saint Paul, MN
Jun 10, 2009
CONDITION REPORT 

The Peregrine falcons are back on Palisade Head, and seem to be on their nesting site. It is on last years "No Sugar, No Baby" climbing route. This is also the same site as 2001, 2002, 2003, and 2008.

We have closed the area between routes called "Hidden Agenda" (route 81 in Pagel's Superior Climbs book) through "Poseidon Adventure" (route 94 in Pagel's Superior Climbs book). These routes will be closed until the birds fledge, usually about late July. We are sorry for any inconvenience.

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2007

If I recall correctly from the late 80's/early 90's there was an older book for the North Shore areas of Lake Superior (IE Tetagouche- Palisade Head and Shovel Point) made a big deal about how that rock was so rare... That it was Rhyolite and that it was found there and in Turkey (yes, the country).

But if you go to the NM page, the comments there include some regarding rhyolite climbing there.

Can someone confirm that there was such a book in print and that it did say that? My memory is usually very accurate for that sort of thing, but 20 years is a long time for minutia.

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
May 9, 2008

Anyone been able to climb up here yet this season? I am thinking about coming up may 18... What is late/mid may weather like up there?

By Dave Rone
From: Eau Claire, Wis
May 11, 2008

I've been hoping to get up there too, as I'm sure many have, but weekend weather hasn't been cooperative. What's it like in mid/late May? Anybody's guess. Could be shorts and tshirts, could be sideways snow. Keep an eye on weather forecast and cross your fingers!