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Soli Deo Gloria 

5.12b

   

FA: FA (Toprope) Paul Bjork - FA (Lead) Dave Groth
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 639 page views

Submitted By: James Loveridge on Sep 5, 2007


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Darin Limvere redpointing Soli Deo Gloria. Septemb...


Description 

Start right of obvious thin crack and climb left up shattered rail to base of thin crack. Place small cams and/or bomber nuts as you climb thin crack and face holds on left passing a fixed piece below overlap/small roof. Pull small roof passing another fixed piece on crimps & side-pulls to gain shattered rail on the left. Work rightward up rail to a not-as-restful-as-you-think-it-will-be rest alcove with fixed pins. Go up trending slightly rightward placing gear in slots as you pass. There's a bit of a kick in the ass at the finish. Good gear (albeit sometimes awkard to place) throughout. Excellent route with great movement and interesting sequences! Reasonable lead as well as fun TR.


Location 

This climb is on the Northern Ramparts section, south of No Sugar, No Baby and north of Ecclesiastes. The top is fairly easy to find: between the aforementioned climbs look for a place where the cliff juts out a bit. There is a prominent clump-o-trees about 5 feet back from the edge. You will see a notch in the bare rock cliff edge just in front of the tree clump. That's the top of the route.


Protection 

Bring small to medium Stoppers, Cams to #2, Heavy on small (.3 Camalot) to Medium (#1 Camalot) cams. Draws and a couple 24" runners



Photos of Soli Deo Gloria Slideshow Add Photo
The starting crack. Darin Limvere. Dean Einerson belaying. September '07.

The starting crack. Darin Limvere. Dean Einerson b...

Finishing moves. Darin Limvere. September '07. Photo: James Loveridge.

Finishing moves. Darin Limvere. September '07. Pho...


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By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a

Climbing really flows nicely on this route. A BD#3 fits great in a horizontal near the top.