A pumpy route. Have the belayer be watchful for the 3rd clip. Clean line with good moves. There are a couple of spots with a bit of crumbly rock. Not so much of a distinct crux, linking together is the key, IMO.
Location
Middle of the unquarried wall, about 40 ft from the corner. Look for a flake/crack going up and slightly to the right with bolts to the left of it. That's your line.
Protection
Bolts, quite a few of them (about 10 or so) on solid rock. Anchors at top - will have to pass the rope, though.
Such a beautiful line that follows this S-curving crack. Pretty much a perfect route with the crux in the beginning, a rest in the middle and a sweet redpoint crux right at the end. There is also two no-hands kneebars and is very well protected. A hidden gem!
One of the best routes around. Simply beautiful and sustained, challenging moves over immaculate sandstone. Mike Dahlberg spent an outrageous amount of time preparing to bolt this so it would flow safely and smoothly without interupting the climbing. Kudos for the FA in the 1980's and in such a terrific job in protecting it!
By BIATHLON From: Duluth Mn May 21, 2008 rating: 5.12a/b
Got on this route and almost got the onsight of it today. Super fun moves. Bolted extremely well, I felt like every bolt was right where I wanted it, Great Job Mike!
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