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Routes in Pot Holes Area
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Buns Out V2 5+ PG13 |
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Court Jester V1-2 5 R |
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Digitalis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Genetic Control TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Little Sizzler T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lunge or Plunge T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B |
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Poosker's Smooch TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Real Thing, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shlocksides T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sizzlefoot T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slicksides T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slicksides Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ PG13 |
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Wheel, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | Mike Dahlberg, First Lead, 1990's. FFA - ? |
| Page Views: | 2,775 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on Aug 11, 2006 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Climbing permits are required for all group and individual climbers at Interstate State Park. Permits are free, and must be renewed each year.
Details
Individual Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Individual permits are available year-round at the park office. Weekends in May and daily Memorial Day through mid-October, permits are also available at the visitor center. Individual climbing permits are also available at the self pay kiosk near the visitor center.
Commercial Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Organized groups are required to obtain a new commercial climbing permit each year. This requires submitting a certificate of insurance with required liability limits and naming the State Of Minnesota as an additional insured party. Application forms are available by calling the park office at 651-539-4500. Requests for new commercial climbing permits should be submitted at least seven days prior to the climbing event to allow time to process the permit request.
dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
Minnesota State Parks strongly endorse a "clean climbing" philosophy. In all but very limited, pre-approved instances, placement of hardware will be limited to that which can be temporarily placed using the climber's fingers. All such protection must be placed and removed without altering the rock."
Individual permits are available year-round at the park office. Weekends in May and daily Memorial Day through mid-October, permits are also available at the visitor center. Individual climbing permits are also available at the self pay kiosk near the visitor center.
Commercial Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Organized groups are required to obtain a new commercial climbing permit each year. This requires submitting a certificate of insurance with required liability limits and naming the State Of Minnesota as an additional insured party. Application forms are available by calling the park office at 651-539-4500. Requests for new commercial climbing permits should be submitted at least seven days prior to the climbing event to allow time to process the permit request.
dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
Minnesota State Parks strongly endorse a "clean climbing" philosophy. In all but very limited, pre-approved instances, placement of hardware will be limited to that which can be temporarily placed using the climber's fingers. All such protection must be placed and removed without altering the rock."
Description
This beautiful problem sits in the center of the potholes area, the first area encountered when approaching the MN side of Taylor's Falls. On a busy day, hundreds walk through the gravelly spot below the wall, but the rare moment exists when climbing this route is a solitary experience, and the overhanging arbor and bubbling stream are electric.
Since it was first climbed, it has been top-roped countless times, led once (Mike Dahlberg - early 90's(?) - before the awesome thin cams of today), and bouldered (Andy Raether ~2001 - a bold ascent, given the landing [update: Word on the street (Adam Therneau) says that Nic and Chris H have also bouldered it - anyone else?]). With appropriate equipment, sound judgment, and motivation, this route is accessible to many more climbers in any of the three styles.
Although short, it contains some of the most enjoyable movement of any route in the state. The rock is solid, the holds are finger friendly (for a 12), and the spacing and position of the holds are not so outrageous that they disallow the emergence of character.
It's one of the easiest set-ups around too, with a five minute walk to the short cliff, a two minute walk to the top, and a five minute set-up.
Marvel at the fantastic movement, the killer hard, well-textured rock, the distinctly different character of the start and finish, and delight in the satisfying top-out.
Since it was first climbed, it has been top-roped countless times, led once (Mike Dahlberg - early 90's(?) - before the awesome thin cams of today), and bouldered (Andy Raether ~2001 - a bold ascent, given the landing [update: Word on the street (Adam Therneau) says that Nic and Chris H have also bouldered it - anyone else?]). With appropriate equipment, sound judgment, and motivation, this route is accessible to many more climbers in any of the three styles.
Although short, it contains some of the most enjoyable movement of any route in the state. The rock is solid, the holds are finger friendly (for a 12), and the spacing and position of the holds are not so outrageous that they disallow the emergence of character.
It's one of the easiest set-ups around too, with a five minute walk to the short cliff, a two minute walk to the top, and a five minute set-up.
Marvel at the fantastic movement, the killer hard, well-textured rock, the distinctly different character of the start and finish, and delight in the satisfying top-out.
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