The start and crux holds of friction fighter chalk...
Description
A Little Fox classic and a must do for any Minnesota Hardman! The most obvious line on the three slabs. Sit start under bulge on two bomber side pulls. Pull up over the bulge to a sloppy/frictiony rail and then move your left hand to a small rail where you can fit 2-3 fingers. Find a small nub for your left foot on the slab and pull up into a right hand foot match. 10 feet of mellow climbing brings you to a good rest. Here you can contemplate either down climbing or committing to the top out. Climb up a couple more feet then reach way up to two small crimps. Use these to get your feet high enough to mantle and it's all over.
Location
Multiple pads and a spotter or two.
Protection
Take 40th Ave west to Skyline and continue up Haines Road for a few hundred yards. Park in the Superior Hiking Trail pull off. Follow bright orange flagging to crag.
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME Aug 19, 2008 rating: V6 R
This thing was scarier than s***! Granted, I was alone, with one pad that was offset to where i would've fallen, but damn! I got stuck about 12 ft up; couldn't move up or down. It took me about 15 minutes to nut up and do it. The crux for me was way off the deck. Make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. The friction on this thing is amazing, and unlike any other rock in Duluth. Anorthicite? I recommend a good cleaning with long brushes before getting on it, and then: several pads, spotters, and big pair.
When working this route I must of did that about 15 times and then down climbed before I worked up the courage to finish it. I have fallen from the upper crux and it's no fun. Not sure if this is a V7, not that I would know since I don't climb that hard. Would be good to hear what others think. Any one else want to weigh in and rate this?
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME Sep 3, 2008 rating: V6 R
Yeah, I think I was a little presumptious with giving it V7 originally due to the highball factor, but imo it's still probably V6.
What a classic climb! A great sit down start to a desperate high-step and rock over, stand up (V4?). Followed by some very fun slab climbing (5.10?), and then the top out gets a little harder. Of course, it's so mental up there due to the height, it took me forever to realize I would just have to trust the tiny nubbins to pull over. I love how the slabbier the route gets, the more nonexistent the holds get. Great movement, landing, holds, friction, excitement. 4 stars for sure.
I've made it to the slabby holdless topout several times now, but I've never felt confident enough to really go for the finish. Maybe I'll bring spotters and more than one pad next time. This route is scary.