Starts about 15 feet right of Balcony Right directly under a large protruding block on top of the cliff. Face climb up to a break in the roof which initially includes a right-facing corner. Crank over the roof (crux) head towards the right side of the overhanging block on top.
Protection
Standard Blue Mounds toprope or possibly a very scary lead with little or no pro below the roof.
I think 10b/c is a little generous for this climb! It was originally rated 5.9 and I believe that feels pretty accurate.
By Pete Hunt From: Mankato, MN May 28, 2009 rating: 5.10+
This is a fun and challenging route even though it is basically a one move wonder. Call me crazy, (maybe I need some beta) but this felt like a hard 10 to me.