Barnburner 

Nice crack climb, always pumps out my right arm. I've never been comfortable enough with the crap rock to risk leading this thing.

I know the rock is pretty shatty in places at the Bluff, how bad is it on this route?? I'm thinking about leading it this weekend but wanted to get an idea of how the gear is and if its worth hopping right on it on lead or if I should set up a TR first.

About 15-20 ft up just below the crux, a large section of a block broke off creating a small ledge. You could now have a hands free rest before heading into the crux of the route. I haven't done it since the block broke off but its probably a little softer now.

Wow, when did the piece break, Travis? There was a hollow sounding crack just above the platform. Is that it?

Yeah it was right once you move past the traverse platform by maybe 5-10 ft. I'll be interested to see how it changes the route. Funny considering I posted earlier this year wondering how the quality of the rock is on this route.

Yeah... We always joked about being on that part of the climb and the whole thing coming off and riding the block to the ground! Funny cause that was also the spot to place sketchy nuts behind the block. It looks like it's a full no hands rest so I'd imagine the route will get easier but maybe the gear won't happen until the crux... Who knows. I guess the gear probably wasn't all that good anyway seeing how the thing fell off. Hats off to whoever leads that thing first this season. Could be interesting!

I led it few times this spring. Only an upper part of the column, that we joked would come off one day, fell. The new platform makes it easier but is not "no hands". It is rather hollow and only as stable as the part that broke off. It may be a good idea to use a crowbar before someone gets seriously injured. Be careful on this climb, whether on lead or top rope. The crux and above is solid. By Red Wing standards that is.

thanks for the update kris;

i will add this route on the routes to be looked at on clean up day... i'm trying to save this route and only climb it when i feel like i'm ready to lead it... that may change depending on if it still can be led safely from the ground up. since the route has changed, i can already hear the drills humming ;) .

-=glenn=-

Glenn, hit that "column" few times and see if it's reasonable to try prying it out. It is definitely hollow-sounding. You can inspect the top part that's now on the ground -- still has chalk marks. It probably fell off on its own, with nobody on it, otherwise I can't imagine the belayer wouldn't get hit.

I led this today and the "column" seems to be OK. Super solid.. no. Not sure if you could take the thing off, it might cause more damage than good to take a crowbar to it and loosen it up more without being able to get it off completely. Something to think about when it gets looked at.

Climb was a little sandy above, although like Kris said, the gear was actually pretty solid after the "new" ledge.

Jeff -- to clarify, I am not talking about the entire "column" but only its upper block, which is ~ 3ft high and is delineated from the rest by a horizontal fracture. I remember the similar fracture under the 5ft top that fell off. I agree with you though that we shouldn't try prying it out unless it's clearly moving. I still wouldn't fall on any gear that's placed in the crack behind it.

Kris- Agreed, we are talking about the same 3':) I also placed some gear around there, warned the belayer and headed out for the ledge and some good gear. When I lowered off, as I took out that piece I yarded on the block pretty hard (weight =197lbs) and there was not any shifting or movement at all.

But as always, be safe and use good judgement. It is after all a great climb.