BETA PHOTO: Frequent Flatulence, the climber on the right is o...
Description
Follow the thin crack and line of bolts. The names derives from placing one buttock on the crux ledge (two-thirds of the way up) in order to gain the ledge. Alternative mantel, high step methods are also acceptable. A somewhat sustained and fun climb.
I've been on this several times over the years. I'm heading out this weekend and always wondered if it'd ever been done on gear? There is reasonable gear most of the way with a little runout at the top.
Hmmm... Hadn't actually thought of that before but I'm sure it would go. Possibly a good one to know where the gear goes before hopping on cause we all know what the rock is like at RW. Tell me how it goes..
In all the times i'd gone last time I finally thought of trying it on gear, well it actually went alright
Gear Beta: .5 C4 in a pod just above the first bolt .4 C4 just above 2nd bolt Blue TCU in flake just to the right before mantle ledge Silver & Purple TCU in horizontal seam just right of mantle ledge Blue TCU in textured crack above mantle ledge (only 2 lobes) #4 BD nut just above the blue TCU
Overall the gear looked decent. I don't know how much i'd trust the 0 & 00 in the seam right at the ledge but on the way down I tested them and they seemed alright. Other than that it felt pretty secure.
Definitely fun to do if you're looking for something else to try at Red Wing.
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