Climb up to a large bulge and move right to surmount it. Work your way left after the bulge, then back again right, and finally left to the anchors (that's the way I climb it anyway). One of the best 5.9s at Red Wing.
RCM&W #108, p. 135.
Location
This route is immediately around the corner from Goofed on Skunk Weed just right of the arete. This route is approximately 200 yards to the right from the top of the approach trail.
Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor at top. Please use your own hardware for top roping whenever possible.
By Sevve Stember From: St. Paul, MN Nov 3, 2008 rating: 5.9 PG13
Beware when climbing this route of getting from the 1st to the 2nd bolt. There is obvious deck fall potential if you fall near the 2nd bolt and a ledge below the 1st bolt to make it a bit more dicey. Leaders: definitely be confident 5.10 climbers if you hop on this route.
Sevve I agree about the decking potential but the crack/ flake to the right of the first bolt has some bomber jugs and I never felt sketched out going for the 2nd bolt. There are many other climbs at RW with a higher second bolt than this one and a sketchier landing. And for being a confident 5.10 leader to do this, I don't know. Yes and no. I don't want to offend you Sevve I just don't want to give people the wrong impression of this route.
A very fun climb with a crimpy finish that will test technique. Except for the second bolt being a tish bit high it is well bolted and a must do.
By Andrew May From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 25, 2009
I would have to agree with Andrew. While there is deck potential, I agree with the way the route was bolted. The climbing between bolts 1 and 2 is relatively easy for the 5.9 grade. I never felt sketchy in that section of the climb. If you can climb 5.9 then you should be just fine on this route.
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