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Femme Fatale 

5.12c

   

FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 466 page views

Submitted By: Darin Limvere on Jun 7, 2006


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start.


Description 

Moist most of the time. Start off the ledge to the left. The first bolt is very hard to clip and I think most people stick clip it. Fun climbing with powerful reaches. A surprising slab crux brings you to a ridiculous runout for the bluff. It's speculated that if one falls while clipping the last bolt you WILL deck. Aside from the general wetness and the pointless runout it's a really fun route and should get more traffic. I don't know about you, but the concept of taking a 60 footer and maybe decking at Red Wing seems pretty stupid. A new bolt should be placed in the runout. If the rock was better and the route was bolted "ground up" I would have a different opinion. Probably one of the better 12's at the bluff. Just left of "Quiet Desperation."


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By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.12c

No bolt needs to be added to this route. Respect the first ascentionist and every ascentionist thereafter. If you can climb the crux on this route (and everything up to it), then you can easily clip the last bolt from jugs. There aren't any tenuous moves between the second to last, and last bolts. There's no reason that a person would deck from this route unless they are doing something stupid.

By AntVicino
Jul 4, 2009

Darin, the description isn't the place to be injecting your personal opinion on ethics and bolting. If you want to comment about those things put them in the comment section. As Jonathan pointed out, you need to respect the first ascentionist and every ascentionist thereafter. Don't bring the climb down to your level.