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Looking for Lust 

5.9

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 95 feet
Views: 739 page views

Submitted By: Andrew May on May 18, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Looking for Lust.


Description 

One of my favorites at Red Wing. Its' the longest route on Barn Bluff. Once you get past the first 20ft of lie back flake its smooth sailing on big jugs.


Location 

This route is the farthest to the right on the Annadonia wall. From the parking lot trail take a right when you see the American flag and keep going until you see the flake.


Protection 

Bring at least a 50m rope. 9 Bolts to the anchors. Please use your own gear for top rope.



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By Ian Harmon
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 6, 2006
rating: 5.9-

The anchors have been moved about 10 feet lower, eliminating the last two bolts, and some dirty chossy climbing. The 2nd to last bolt is about 5 inches below the new anchor.

By josh wabaunsee
Jul 1, 2007

the new anchor station has created a dangerous sharp rope groove. Id recomend extending the anchor down another 4 feet for toprope sessions.

By Kris Gorny
Nov 28, 2007

I second Josh. The old anchors were positioned better. With the new ones it's impossible to avoid rope thrashing on a sharp edge.

By Sonnabend
From: West Saint Paul, MN
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.9

Climbed this on July 8th, 2008. This is a great route, deffinately my new favorite at Barn Bluff.
I replaced one of the carabiners at the anchor due to it being worn about halfway through on one end. A good reminder for me to always bring a couple spare biners and not to use them for belaying.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.8

goes on gear. medium cams, nuts. watch out for rotten rock up top.