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Chicken Head Ranch
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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Dana Prosser on Jun 28, 2011
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This fun route packs a punch in its 50 feet. Climb the slightly bulgy section to the nice looking splitter. Mostly thin hands (#0.75 and 1 Camalots). Too bad this one isn't a little longer....


This route is located on East face of Chickenhead Ranch. It is right of Mini slab and left of Wishbone Dihedral.


A single set of cams.

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By slim
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Kind of a stout little bastard for how easy it looks.

By Chris Mack
Jul 21, 2012

This route is great, on excellent rock, with good gear. Very fun, you may want to run a few laps on it as as we can all agree it is just too short and leaves you wanting.

That said, for it to be .10a, you either must have hands the size of a female wood elf, or be a dude with massive sausage fingers as fat as Ball Park franks. It is dead vertical to bulging, and ring lock size for most people. I am not sure what I would rate it, but getting established and making the first few moves was damn tough and insecure.

If you are only planning on climbing this gear route, to save weight in your pack, bring (2) #0.5, (2) #0.75, (1-2) #1, and maybe a #2 (BD sizes). This is more than enough, but we won't all place in the same spot and it would give you options.