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Mini Skirts And Halter Tops
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 38
votes
Routes in Shady Crag
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5/15/37 T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Finger Bang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Goby Dick T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jock Straps & Banana Hammocks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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MCL T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mini Skirts And Halter Tops T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Popped cherries T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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September Sweat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shit Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | K3 & K2 |
| Page Views: | 3,229 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Karl kelley on Nov 2, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A fantastically fun route! The start of this left facing corner route was done years ago, I am not sure when or by whom. Mini Skirts and Halter Tops is an addition/continuation my son and I did in 2012. Start by climbing the old route with mostly small hands. Half way up this is a rest by stemming across to a leaning pillar. Continue up the corner passing the old belay. Shortly after, pass two bolts (technical crux) on your way to a shallow stem box. Continue up the box with fingers to off fingers eventually passing two more bolts and mantle on to a small belay ledge with a 2 bolt station. Stop here and belay or continue to make an amazingly long lead. Continue on the right side of the box with a short fingers section eventually going to hands to a sweet gold Camalot roofÂ… Great exposure!
Protection
.2 through #4 Camalots. Heaviest on Reds and Golds. Lots of shoulder slings especially if you are doing as one long pitch. Four draws for the bolts (if doing as one long pitch, use shoulder length slings for the last 2 bolts)
Rap the route from the top to the ground if you brought a tag line or rap from the top down to the original anchor and then to the ground with a single 70m
Rap the route from the top to the ground if you brought a tag line or rap from the top down to the original anchor and then to the ground with a single 70m
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