Mineral Wells State Park  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  32.8203, -98.0273 Map Page Views:  13,636. Good page? (2 likes)    Administrators:  Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Ryan Lauck on Sep 27, 2007 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 88° | 61° 88° | 68° 91° | 68° 88° | 70° 88° | 68°

The entrance to Penitentiary Hollow from the parki...

Description 

Lake Mineral Wells State Park is one of the closest climbing areas to the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex. The climbing area is a small maze of sandstone conglomerate bluffs named Penitentiary Hollow.

Due to the rock quality the park service restricts the area to top roping and rappelling only and the area is closed when wet. The walls range from 20 to 40 feet and are mostly face climbs with a few tough classics and plenty of easy to moderate routes. Most routes are in the 5.6 - 5.9 range but there are plenty of 10s and 11s too.

Almost all climbs have solid bolt anchors at the top, but bring plenty of long slings because many are 8 to 10 feet or further from the edge. The tops of all climbs can be reached directly off the path from the parking lot or by an easy scramble.

The best time to go is late fall through spring. Texas summers will leave you stewing in your own sweat before you can even set an anchor. Picnicers and spectators usually outnumber climbers 3 to 1, but plenty of large groups come here on the weekends. I've found that most groups show up early and clear out by 3 or 4, so sleep in late.

Currently you need to pay $5 per person to enter the park (free if you have a Texas State Park pass) and $3 per climber. Also, every climber has to sign in.

Getting There 

Lake Mineral Wells State Park and Trailway is located 4 miles east of Mineral Wells on US Highway 180 or 14 miles west of Weatherford on US Highway 180

100 Park Road 71
Mineral Wells TX 76067
940/328-1171

Detailed directions and a map can be found at:

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/lake_mineral_wel>>>

The Classics

Featured Route For Mineral Wells State Park

Mission Impossible V4+ PG13  TX : Mineral Wells State Park : Main Canyon Left

Update: By J. Thornton on Dec 25, 2012This problem is actually on Big Overhang wall, and is same start as Hidden Jewel.---- Thanks for the help J. Thornton. -Tyler1080p HD Video of the first send by Tyler Garrett VIA GoProCam....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Photos of Mineral Wells State Park Slideshow

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The top of the main canyon on a crowded day	A view of the main canyon from the scenic overlook	the "cave" viewed from the PeeWee side
BETA PHOTO: Bouldered in the 80's by David White the Deadhead ...	This scrappy little boulder has 3 or 4 routes with...	BETA PHOTO: climbdfw.wordpress.com/topos/
BETA PHOTO: climbdfw.wordpress.com/topos/