Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 967 ft
GPS: 32.8203, -98.0273
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 120,691 total · 602/month
Shared By: Ryan Lauck on Sep 27, 2007 · Updates
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell

Description Suggest change

Lake Mineral Wells State Park is one of the closest climbing areas to the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex. The climbing area is a small maze of sandstone conglomerate bluffs named Penitentiary Hollow.

Due to the rock quality, most of the area is top-roping and rappelling only, but more recently a few sport bolted sports routes have been established. The area is closed when wet. The walls range from 20 to 40 feet and are mostly face climbs with a few tough classics and plenty of easy to moderate routes. Most routes are in the 5.6 - 5.9 range but there are plenty of 10s and 11s too.

Almost all climbs have solid bolt anchors at the top, but bring plenty of long slings because many are 8 to 10 feet or further from the edge. The tops of all climbs can be reached directly off the path from the parking lot or by an easy scramble.

The best time to go is late fall through spring. Texas summers will leave you stewing in your own sweat before you can even set an anchor. Picnickers and spectators usually outnumber climbers 3 to 1, but plenty of large groups come here on the weekends. I've found that most groups show up early and clear out by 3 or 4, so sleep in late.

Currently you need to pay $7 per person to enter the park (free if you have a Texas State Park pass) and $4.50 per climber (even if you have a Texas State Park pass). Also, every climber has to sign a waiver in the front office each visit, but the office doesn't open until 8AM even though the park gate is opened at 6AM.

Getting There Suggest change

Lake Mineral Wells State Park and Trailway is located 4 miles east of Mineral Wells on US Highway 180 or 14 miles west of Weatherford on US Highway 180

100 Park Road 71
Mineral Wells TX 76067
940/328-1171

Detailed directions and a map can be found at:

tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/fin…

53 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mineral Wells State Park Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mineral Wells State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4+ 6B+ PG13
 5
Mission Impossible
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 22
78: Easy Nose
Sport, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 8
Unnamed sport climb
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Alaska Crack
TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Overhang
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Connect the Pockets
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 21
Solo Crack
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Thin Crack
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Racheal's Way
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 35
PeeWee's
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 8
Keith's Way
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 6
Hidden Jewel
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Finger Stinger
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mission Impossible Main Canyon Left
 5
V4+ 6B+ PG13 Boulder
78: Easy Nose Side Canyons &… > Cave Tower
 22
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Unnamed sport climb Side Canyons &… > Middle Tower
 8
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Alaska Crack Main Canyon Left
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Overhang Side Canyons &… > Cave Tower
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Connect the Pockets Main Canyon Right
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Solo Crack Side Canyons &… > Middle Tower
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 TR
Thin Crack Main Canyon Left
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Racheal's Way Side Canyons &… > Cave Tower
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
PeeWee's Side Canyons &… > Cave Tower
 35
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Keith's Way Big Overhang
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c TR
Hidden Jewel Big Overhang
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c TR
Finger Stinger Main Canyon Left
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
More Classic Climbs in Mineral Wells State Park »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading