Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Crystal Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cornered Again 
Crystallize 
Hot Rocks 
Mineral Museum 
Quartz Sports 
Skippin' Stones 

Mineral Museum 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 2,563
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 2, 2001
Good Page? 2 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Kirsten on one of the best 5.9s in the canyon.

Description 

Mineral Museum is a fine warm-up on largely good stone. Get the first clip without freaking out and the route will be a gas. After the first clip, head a bit left on good fingers and then cut back right onto a run of pegmatite. This still sheds a bit of surface debris nearly 10 years later. After the pegmatite, some big blocks and a fun move through a corner just below the anchors give the Mineral Museum character. Two stars for the fun moves, good bolting job, and convenient warm-up.


Protection 

QDs only was the apparent intent. For someone climbing at 5.9, I personally think that getting to the first clip can be a bit hairy. A camming device or two will ease the creep factor. However, if you don't have these along, be assured that there is a huge jug below and right of the first bolt that makes the clip comfortable, but, this cannot be seen from the ground. The route is about 75 feet long and takes 7 to 8 draws. 4 bolts have been added to the route. 11? bolts.



Photos of Mineral Museum Slideshow Add Photo
John Fleming cruising up the route.
John Fleming cruising up the route.
Harald Harb, great warm up, over bolted.
Harald Harb, great warm up, over bolted.
Bolts! Lots of bolts! It seems to me like the recently placed bolts may be in better positions that some of the old bolts, and they aren't loose like the cold-shuts. Great climb!!!
Bolts! Lots of bolts! It seems to me like the rece...
Zach is just loving the solid, positive holds!
Zach is just loving the solid, positive holds!
Taking a lap through the museum.
Taking a lap through the museum.
Taking a museum tour.  Not as hard as the tryol!
Taking a museum tour. Not as hard as the tryol!
A look at the bottom half.
BETA PHOTO: A look at the bottom half.
Comments on Mineral Museum Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 29, 2012
By Joshua Lewis
Mar 19, 2002

Aptly named. Any geologist would love this climb.

By TBD
May 14, 2002

Diverse climbing, absolutely fun route. By itself, the climb would be worth the hike.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

For the area and for the grade, this is a really good climb. The small quartz bands are cool, complete with protruding, natuarally-shaped crystals in spots. The big band complete with the red and black mineral inclusions and stains is simply awesome. Furthermore, the moves are secure and fun. Truely enjoyable.

By Nate Oakes
May 15, 2006

Colorful, beautiful rock all the way up. Getting past the dihedral right before the anchors is fun, reach high to your left to slap a stout hold and pull up to the anchors. I found there were a number of paths between the second and sixth draws, it was a bit difficult for me to tell what the intended route was.

By jon dickey
From: Half Moon Bay CA
Sep 30, 2006

Someone very recently added 4 bolts to this route. I can agree that the first bolt could be used for 5.9 climbers, but the other 3 are bordering on ridiculousness. You are clipping bolts when the last one is at your chest. Does anyone know who put these in?

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 1, 2006

Another travesty. I wonder if the retrobolter responsible is the FA? I am very surprised and disappointed.

This has potential for the start of a huge problem....

By Dougald MacDonald
Oct 2, 2006

I don't want to get into this except to correct the last comment: I'm sure it wasn't the FA party that added the bolts. I was at the crag when the bolts were added.

By Chris Cavallaro
Oct 2, 2006

Dougald,
You are saying you know who did this and are expecting that people aren't going to try and gain this information?
Also, you agree with the adding of these bolts obviously, so maybe you could speak for this person and advise us on why they chose to do so? I would assume they are the ones responsible for the new Anarchy Wall bolting?
You are now considered a part of this issue by posting that comment. I don't know for what reason you decided to post, other than admirably 'sticking up' for the FAs, but they should have done that for themselves.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

It seems like someone should contact the FA party and ask if permission was given and let the party decide whether or not to remove the retro-bolts themselves.
It may be a minor transgression, but if left to stand it may tacitly encourage additional retrobolting.
I thought the climb was nice. It would not be made nicer by interrupting the climbing with a bunch more clips. Which I could admittedly easily skip.

By Dougald MacDonald
Oct 3, 2006

Mark Rolofson added the bolts to this route. I don't have an opinion about them, because I haven't climbed the route since it was retrobolted. Those who have opinions ought to take them up with Mark, rather than launch a flame-a-thon here. I have no idea if he made any changes at Anarchy.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Take it up with Mark? Are you joking?

I don't think you could pay me enough to talk to Mark since he threatened to slit my throat and slash my tires with his window scraper and told me if he "better never see me or my friends in Boulder."

He called me at my office and it rang in my lab where I put him on speaker phone, so the whole lab staff heard him. Considering the possibility that he might have been entirely serious, I gave him my car description and license plate number so he'd be sure not to go looking and get the wrong car- and be unknown. I'd rather that sort of person vandalize the right car (mine) and then spend 5 years in jail for stalking/menacing/vandalism/death threats than go f'ing up the wrong car. So, having a dozen witnesses, I called the cops. They asked me if I wanted a restraining order or a no-contact order (more severe) and advised me that if I were to file a formal complaint about the threat that he would be arrested and prosecuted, and possibly jailed because he 'already has a record.' I don't know any of the details about that though because they wouldn't tell me. Either way, I let it drop and asked his pal to advise him to leave me alone. He has left me alone, and it's gone no further. I doubt he's actually a death dealer, but he's absolutely got a nasty temper and is probably best left alone.

If you want to know the deal on the bolts, talk to Ken Trout first. Ken seems like a reasonable guy, even if I don't agree with some of his ideas. Maybe he consented to the bolts or something, and a lot of unpleasantness can be avoided.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 3, 2006

Yikes. I was not planning on having two versions of my new book, as bolt counts seem to be transient, ha ha. An "original CCC climber's guide", and a "retro-bolted CCC climber's guide". Which would you buy? I suppose eventually the revision would be the "restored-retro-chopped CCC climber's guide." At this rate, it may take forever to get printed.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 22, 2008

We climbed this on Sunday, and counted 11 bolts. I can certainly understand Darren's issue regarding bolt count, and now that his guidebook has been released/published, it is now after the fact. The first of our party to ascend brought up 9 QDs, and was able to back clean without any issues. Perhaps in the future there will be more peace, love and understanding....Maybe not...Young Doug.

By Randy Slavin
Jun 2, 2009

Please don't freak out and attack me (or slash my tires, slit my throat, etc), but this climb (almost) goes on gear. Just clipped one, interesting placements for the rest.

Peace

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Ahh, it all makes sense now. Guidebook said 7 bolts with a high first bolt, but it sure looked like a lot more than 7 and with a pretty low first bolt. So my partner gave me about 15 draws. I back-cleaned a few and ended up with 4 still on my harness when I was done. Just be careful - there is z-clip potential on a few of them. Seemed like most of the falls would have been clean, too. I was wondering why it had so many bolts.

At any rate, this is a really fun route and it just keeps going and going. I think the 9+ at Capitalist is probably the best of the grade in the canyon, but this one was up there. Way better than the 9+ at High Wire. I am apparently somewhat of a 9+ connoisseur.

Also, please don't slash my throat and/or tires.

By gordwah
From: colorado
Jan 29, 2012

Great route woooooooooo!