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Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
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Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Completion Backword Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eldorado Gold S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,890 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jul 7, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
The first route encountered on the West end of Ridge 2, Mind Control ascends what amounts to a separate buttress on Ridge 2 that seems to project itself higher than anything else around.
The route fires up a sub-vertical slab that starts in the trees, the rock is edgy and gray colored and reminds me of the upper routes on Ridge 4. The object appears to be to shift around an arete like thing to get established on the face, and this seemed to me to be the crux. Once on the face, just hold it together between bolts, which seems spacey, and dance up on largely good edges and thin flakes.
It seemed to me that just about every move was 5.10- so the climbing was very continuous. Mind Control is a fine line and worth the hump by itself.
The route fires up a sub-vertical slab that starts in the trees, the rock is edgy and gray colored and reminds me of the upper routes on Ridge 4. The object appears to be to shift around an arete like thing to get established on the face, and this seemed to me to be the crux. Once on the face, just hold it together between bolts, which seems spacey, and dance up on largely good edges and thin flakes.
It seemed to me that just about every move was 5.10- so the climbing was very continuous. Mind Control is a fine line and worth the hump by itself.
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