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 ADVANCED
Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bob's Arete T 
Burning Down the House S 
Completion Backword Principle S 
Eldorado Gold S 
In Plain View S 
King of Pain S 
Mind Control S 
Opus 73 T 
Peri-less Journey S 
Powder Finger S 
Riding With the King S 
Three-Stage Traverse T 
Top Down Design S 
Unsorted Routes:

Mind Control 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 642
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 8, 2001

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After the insecure move around the arete. Move a b...

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Description 

The first route encountered on the West end of Ridge 2, Mind Control ascends what amounts to a separate buttress on Ridge 2 that seems to project itself higher than anything else around.

The route fires up a sub-vertical slab that starts in the trees, the rock is edgy and gray colored and reminds me of the upper routes on Ridge 4. The object appears to be to shift around an arete like thing to get established on the face, and this seemed to me to be the crux. Once on the face, just hold it together between bolts, which seems spacey, and dance up on largely good edges and thin flakes.

It seemed to me that just about every move was 5.10- so the climbing was very continuous. Mind Control is a fine line and worth the hump by itself.

Protection 

QDs only. This 100 foot route needs 8 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Mind Control Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux.
At the crux.
After the insecure move around the arete.
After the insecure move around the arete.
On the easy but fun climbing. The climb moves righ...
On the easy but fun climbing. The climb moves righ...

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