|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Richard Rossiter and Dan Hare. FFA Vaino Kodas and BD|
|Page Views: ||807|
|Submitted By: ||Ron Olsen on Aug 11, 2003|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.
Start on the very right side of the upper ledge. Climb up a nice slab leading into a steep corner. Good holds and protection will get you to the crux move right before the anchor. Good route on good stone.
Nine bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor.
Dane Casterson looks up to contemplate the crux of...
Deb moving into the crux.
Aug 16, 2004
Very nice, sustained at the top.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Good rock and good route. The bolts through the crux are darn close together, but they were thoughtfully placed. The route still has a few moves left in it after the crux, too. I think it may have been over graded though- perhaps the horizontal crack and sidepulls through the crux have cleaned up. Regardless, 5.11c or 5.11d seems more appropriate.
|By david goldstein|
Sep 14, 2006
I agree w/ Tony about the rating. The headwall is quality climbing, but it is considerably easier than the direct start of Immaculate Deception (not to mention the crux of MLK). Call it 11c, and it's still pretty easy in the grade.
|By Richard Rossiter|
Sep 18, 2006
Good job to Vaino and Bob. Tony is correct, though. When I first led this climb with Serena Benson in 1999, the wall was still streaked with rock powder from my old Bosch hammer drill. Dirt and lichen yet obscured critical holds. I couldn't quite pull the final mantle and so responsibly graded the route 12a A0.
I never went back until recent times. The route has cleaned up very well over the past 7 years and is a real beauty of a face climb. I find the final moves to be quite demanding, and I still grade the route 12a.
I experienced the same situation on the FA of Aerial Boundaries with Moe Hershof and Leah Macaluso, 1998. This is another exceptional face climb and a very difficult one to do all free. Though the crux is really a single move, it is not easily passed. Most folks clip the bolt and yard off the quickdraw. Kudos to Bob D. for getting it right.