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Mind Bender Direct 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: possibly unknown, fixed pitons found in lower half FA(finish on Golden Book): Casey Newman, Mike Heintz, 12/1975 FA(finish on Cat-o'Nine-Tails):
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Submitted By: Jim O'Brien on Jun 12, 2007
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Mind Bender left, Golden Book Right corner

Description 

Climb the slab to a right facing corner, over steep blocks to the large block about 3/4 up. Work your way through the block to the roof, reach up and over and claw your way up for an exciting finish.


Location 

Right facing corner / left of Golden Book.


Protection 

Fixed gear missing, large cams to protect the roof.



Photos of Mind Bender Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Mind bender follows the center of the slab to the right facing corner- 1st crux is negotiating the large block 1/2 way up- 2nd is pulling over the small roof
BETA PHOTO: Mind bender follows the center of the slab to the ...
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By Eric Greene
Oct 22, 2008

I think the route is much better when started in the corner just to the left of the slab, but the way above is how the route is presented in guidebooks.

By Clint Cummins
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 4, 2009

FA: possibly unknown, fixed pitons found in lower half
FA(finish on Golden Book): Casey Newman, Mike Heintz, 12/1975
FA(finish on Cat-o'Nine-Tails): Al Long, Sam Streibert, 5/1976
FA(direct finish): Ken Nichols, Garry Waltman, 5/1983

By Leif
Apr 7, 2013

good lead. Roof protects with #4 BD. Follow the crack from left to right as it changes corners to start. Dont waste your time with the slab start.