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Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Eckstien and Lee Brinckerhoff 3/2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 742
Submitted By: LeeAB on Mar 29, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo

Description 

A new longest hard route at Socorro. Harder than Sinister Dane or Ride the Lightning but not really sure by how much. Moderate 5.11+ climbing up to a rest then a very technical V9ish crux through the 5th to 7th bolt. Easy section up to a final hard bit from the 9th bolt to over the lip of the roof, might be V6.

Stick clip the first bolt or lean across form the left and clip it. Make big moves up past the next 2 bolts on sidepulls and pinches with a pocket thrown in, to gain a sloping shelf with a jug in it. Move up to clip the 4th and get a rest on a hollow sounding undercling. Have a long draw on the 5th bolt or you will not be able to clip it with your feet on the shelf. Move up into an undercling right to clip then move out right to sloping sidepulls and gastons on the rounded arete. Use careful body positioning to worm your way around to a jug out right and clip the 6th. Move back left onto the arete on more sloping holds. Then big moves out left to edges to get over onto the slab and the 7th bolt. From the 7th to the 9th the climbing is less than vertical and you can rest as much as you'd like. At the 9th you stand up into a sloping sidepull/undercling with the left and reach way out right to a ramp. At the top of the ramp is a good edge to clip the 10th bolt. A huge move gains the arete out right, there is an edge around the corner that is good just below where the roof starts. Surmount the roof with a huge move to some not so good holds then move left to jugs. Mantle over easily and clip the chains.

Location 

The right side of the large pillar in the middle of north wall.

Protection 

11 bolts and anchors with biners, preclip the first as the first move is comitting.

As of now there are 2, 7th bolts, you want to clip the one on the left.


Comments on Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 30, 2009

Chris bolted this line in 2001 or so, but didn't really try it at the time. It sat idle for awhile, apparently Nathaniel from Los Alamos worked on it a bit at some point. Chris tried it in 2005 or 2006 once but could not do the crux section, it was probably too warm as the holds are terrible. Then Chris and I went out on two seperate days, one to work out the moves and on the second we both sent.

The route is either C or D. I'm not sure which, time and others will tell.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2009

Hmmm, no wonder this thing felt so damn hard. Cause it is.

I thought I was on Boss Hog when I got onto this one. I hope whoever was the lucky recipient of my bail beaner enjoys it.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 31, 2009

Tony if you want it back I'm sure Chris would be willing to part with it. Though we did almost put it on the Boss Hog anchorwhen we were told it looked as though it was in bad condition but it really did not need it so he still has it.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2009

Oh no, bootie is bootie, it's Chris' fair and square! No worries, I have more :)
By Julien Chaput
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13

Great climb! I'd actually be comfortable calling it 13c-d, as it feels like a grade above Sinister Dane, but it's surprisingly approachable. I've installed a chain on the 6th bolt, as there was an issue where the draw would get severely damaged by a small razor edge just below the bolt (had to replace the slings on 2 of my draws).
Certainly one of the best hard problems I've been on, entirely worth the effort. Might post a picture or two soon.