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 ADVANCED
Milton Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Donna 
Milton 
Never Say Never 
Smeary Thing 
Undercling Problem 

Milton 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,682
Submitted By: pfwein on Jul 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Hitting the lip on Milton.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pull onto SW face of Milton boulder, go up to obvious crystal with right hand, and sloping crimper several feet up and to left of crystal with left hand. From there, shoot to top (best hold is a little right of low point) and mantel.

Location 

This should be easy to find: if there is car parked West of Milton, it may block the problem. The SW face of Milton boulder right of Milton problem has very difficult problems such as Never Say Never.

Protection 

Not highball and has good landing, but pad is nice for the many falls from the lip that a moderate boulderer may take.


Photos of Milton Slideshow Add Photo
Lip move.
BETA PHOTO: Lip move.
Trying the lefthand throw...it works.
Trying the lefthand throw...it works.
Slippery foot... engage!
Slippery foot... engage!

Comments on Milton Add Comment
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By pfwein
Jul 19, 2009

Colorado Bouldering by P. Benningfield rates V3. That's strange, as the inventor of the V rating system, J. Sherman, uses Milton as an example of the benchmark for V4. (See Hueco Tanks, Climbing and Bouldering Guide, 2nd ed., Chockstone Press Inc., 1995, p. 20).
Not a big deal, but I've always been a little miffed at Benningfield: Milton does not seem like a problem to downrate.
My beta: either R or L foot onto obvious, greaser hold, then go to top with L hand. I've seen others use R foot up and R of greaser hold, and go to top with R hand. Mantel exit is much easier but not totally trivial.
I've done this on warm summer days: maybe it's easy when cooler. Beautiful moderate/hard problem.
By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Oct 10, 2011
rating: V6+ 7A

This thing is so much harder than V4. I send V9 with one session of working, and this thing took me 15 goes to send.
By Austin Johnson
Nov 6, 2012

Fun alternate (Milton Dyno V5): dyno from the starting holds to the lip, and mantle over.

Much more fun, in my opinion...compared to the original problem. Did both versions today, and this dyno was a lot of fun.