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Millstone Edge

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Millstone Edge 


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Elevation: 600'
Location: 53.3207, -1.6295 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,180
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jun 26, 2008
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Setting sun viewed from Milestone Edge

Description 

Millstone Edge is a remarkable venue for climbing. Unlike many of the other edges Millstone is an old quarry, and the rock features left by the quarrymen are very striking.

The rock is generally of excellent quality, although the top outs for some of the routes need caution as the steep slopes above the cliff can be sandy in places.

The cliff faces west, dries quickly after rain and is easy to reach.


Getting There 

From Hathersage head East on the A6187, after about 1 mile the road follows sharply round to the left. Park up either on the left before the turn or shortly after in the cap park.

Follow the track (just to the west of the sharp turn) heading North. You'll soon arrive at the first area.


22 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Millstone Edge:
Bond Street   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 75'   London Wall Area
Browse More Classics in Millstone Edge

Featured Route For Millstone Edge
Mid crux on Covernty Street, 5.11d.

Coventry Street 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Keyhole Cave Area
Climb directly up the crack with good solid finger jams directly up to gain a good rest 15 below the cave. The next section up to the roof is the technical crux.On increasingly difficult finger jams make progress until possible to grab the good lip on the cave.From here standup, and climb the sandy cave until a difficult move at the roof allows you to dynamically get established on the head wall above the cave. The finishing moves are easier, but they feel decidedly airy, as you make your wa...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By the professor
Aug 12, 2013

The road east from Hathersage is the A6187 not A6167. It might be useful for newcomers to note that easiest climbers access. Park in the large lot (one must buy a parking ticket from dispenser---it takes only credit cards). Walk east on the main trail about 100 meters or so, staying left at all junctions, to find the first and lowest viewpoint. This has a stone fence. Step over the fence and follow it right and down the obvious draw which leads to the Entrance Bay (has some small and insignificant climbs laced with brush).

Do NOT follow the main path up the hill and parallel to the stone wall. This is a hill walker's trail that skirts the top of Millstone Edge and continues for miles beyond.