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 ADVANCED
Cottonwood Wash
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Bant, The T 
I'm Calling Your Bluff T 
Million Dollar Baby T 
Million Dollar Tower -Compressor Route-  
Stolen Knee T 
Wider than you think T 

Million Dollar Baby 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson
Season: year round
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: S.Mckinna on Mar 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route starts behind a 200 ft. pinnacle on the south end of it. I am sure the first pitch could be done on the north side as well but looks harder. The first pitch is a 5.5 chimney, with not a ton of pro but pretty easy, about 40 ft. I have seen people free solo the first part. Natural belay on a large ledge. Second pitch is the fun stuff that is mostly hands and wide hands up a slanting right strait-in crack for 160 ft. Belay from the top on a good ledge with a great view. The belay/rap ledge is north facing and kinda cold in the winter.


Location 

From the gate walk down the road for about a mile, almost parrallel with The Bant, head west into a side canyon. There is a climb or two on your right as you head west into the side drainage. Not far in you will begin to see a tall detached spire with the right leaning crack on the wall behind it. The climb is moslty east facing.


Protection 

BD camalots: 2+3 triples, a couple 4s, and a 5 could work up top. I haven't climbed it in a while but I think a single set of smaller stuff like TCUs will more than work. Belay and rap from the top on 2 fixed pins with webbing. Double 60m ropes.



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By Jaaron Mankins
From: Bayfield, CO
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

This is a pretty good pitch. As it gets wider, the angle eases back just a little. Cool spot.