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BETA PHOTO: Topo
Yeah, go ahead and lug the cams up, this route is worth it – an unusual (for BCC), two-part right-facing dihedral with a sweet fingers-to-thin-hands crack in the back. From the ground, either climb a somewhat licheny face to gain the ledge from which the first part of the dihedral begins, or – maybe better – start up Eraserhead (clipping its first bolt) and step right to the first part of the dihedral. One of the first routes put up on The Millstone. Ruckmans: “Strenuous and Canyonlands-esque.”
Between Eraserhead to the left and Personal Jesus to the right.
Double set of cams from thin fingers to thin hands, and maybe a few similar-sized nuts. Rap or lower from the anchors for Eraserhead (two bolts equipped with slings — in good condition as of this writing, but consider doing a public service and bring chains to install).
Aug 29, 2012
Some may want to spare the weight and only bring a single set of cams from .3 - #2